Cyprus to Slovakia - Part 3 Arrival

Armed with our cameras loaded with photographs, two small stones from the top of the mountain and a memory full of breathtaking views,

we returned from Mount Olympus with our little Blue Dot bravely leading the way as darkness descended on the Island.

We spent the next day diving off the coast near Aya Napa,

driven there, this time with a hotel guest at the steering wheel of the truck and trailer now that Kris's licence had expired!

Our fins were put on at the bottom of the cliff,

as Kris explained the logistics of our point of entry!!

Blow holes had been formed from the relentless pounding of the sea, blow holes JUST big enough for a person in scuba gear to get through!!

Carefully we dropped down into the water through the holes as water surged around us

In the underground caves below we got our bearings before exiting into the open sea to begin our dive..

The dive was wonderful, the water clear the fish divine and responsive but my exit was a wee bit more clumsy that my entry 

(In actual truth I was bodily hauled out of the hole by Kris and Peter but we won't mention that bit!!)

It was yet another day, this time spent windsurfing and kayaking around the hotel, before we ventured out with the car once more.

During the past two days maps had been studied while we lounged on the beaches, the tourist brochures had been perused, distances verses time available had been analysed and a plan had been made.

As the sun peeped over the horizon the next morning and Kris crawled down the stairs to his waiting lift to work, Peter, a very sleepy Cian and I loaded our drinks and biscuits into our fuel filled car and set off.

Cian was asleep within minutes and missed the glorious sun rise as we drove away from the coast towards the North. He also missed the tiny villages we passed through, each one alive with people scurrying here and there before the sun became too hot.

He did wake up at the border as, with passport and car hire papers in hand, I negotiated our crossing from the southern Greek side into the northern Turkish side of Cyprus. In the distance a huge Turkish flag had been carved out of the mountainside, its white stones gleaming in the heat. Our passports were stamped, additional road insurance was paid for, another selection of road maps was passed over the counter and we were off!

Our little Blue Dot led us to the north coast but failed to find the marina we were looking for, it did find us the ferry port so it was forgiven!

Our little Blue Dot then led us along the tranquil northern coast line revealing the tiniest of coves lapped gently by the blue Mediterranean seas. Further along the coast long stretches of sand could be seen over grass covered dunes. We stopped to stretch our legs and bath our toes in the cooling water before warming them again on the warm sands.

Down the beach, where the sand gave way to the rocky point, incredible rock formations hid underground caves. As the sea surged below, water spouts would erupt through blow holes with glugs and whallops, shooting water a foot into the air before it fell back down to form tiny pools that resembled crater formations.

Walking around the point we discovered even more fascinating rocks totally different from the first!!

Bleached white and so smooth to the touch, long flat fingers of rock stretched out along the shore.

Narrow inlets of water stood evaporating in the sun leaving behind crystallised salt in thin lines.

At the point itself the ground rose up ending with huge boulders that were balanced upon each other.

Clear water lay in large pools, shallow and warm in the mid day sun.

Sandstone waves stood motionless in the breeze.

We clambered over the rough scree of the point … I climbed to the top of the boulders, very pleased with myself as I manoeuvred around and over the overhang. The view was breathtaking but I had climbed without my camera!!

We returned over the white flats to the spouting water holes,

where I sat for a good half an hour desperately trying yet failing to photograph the actual water popping out!

Our little Blue Dot then led us to the furthest point in Cyprus, down roads and tracks we would never have found without help. The sun was beginning to set as we pulled to the side of the road.

Below us lay a beach to rival any of those I have lived on in India. A scattering of beach huts and two small restaurants nestled in the dunes. If we had not been due to pick Kris up from work that evening we would have spent the night so peaceful was the scene.

We stayed until the sun disappeared over the horizon,

we gazed out over the smooth Mediterranean sea.

This was a place to come back to, this was a place to stay. A mental note was stored away in my brain as we climbed back into the car and let the little Blue Dot lead us home.

Where we found tiny snake the next morning by the pool!!!!

Which actually looks impressive in the photo until I put some scale into it lol!!!

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Kris returned to the UK three days after us and booked his theory test for the following Wednesday. He passed.

He then found a car test date for the Wednesday after. And passed!

On the Thursday he and Peter went to the auction and bought a car and on the Monday he began working for Karl as a delivery guy!!

Maybe this visit wasn't going to be so bad after all!!

Over Christmas Romana arrived from Slovakia!

Kris and Romana had met that summer in the Aldiana in Cyprus where they both worked. A work romance had begun and although Romana had left to return to University by the time we had arrived there for our break, the thought of not seeing each other until the following summer was too much for them to bear.

Her studies gave her a three week window over the festive season and as he was mobile and working Kris invited her to stay.

The Snow board holiday was still floating about in the ether but no plans had actually been made and with the arrival of Christmas our Taxi's were so busy it didn't even enter our conversations. Kris was out every day delivering his parcels, Romana studied in the mornings and helped Kris in the afternoons. Before we knew it, it was time for her to leave.

“You must come and visit me” she remarked a few days before her departure. “We have snow up in the mountains and my family has a chalet there.” Kristofer's eyes lit up, as did Cians. Snow … Skiing … Snowboards!!

The internet was trawled for flights, e-mails were sent to family and returned with bookings confirmed.

We were on our way to Slovakia at the end of the week!!!!!

The flight to Bratislava was short, a mere two hours, unfortunately it was a mere two hours at 6am!!We had already been awake for seven hours by the time Romana met us at the cold windswept airport and directed us to the just as cold concertina joined bus. This took us to the train station where for the 'huge' price of 40 Euros, we bought five tickets for the three hour journey that would take us half way across the country and into the snow covered hills.

The trains in Slovakia are so civilised!! To prevent excessive heat loss each carriage is divided into compartments off a corridor, just like the trains I remember in my youth.

We took over an entire compartment stuffing bags onto over head shelves and hanging our coats on the pegs by the doors!

Warmth filled the room from the overhead heaters and within moments Cian had discovered that each seat reclined to form a virtual bed!

I don't think he remembers the rest of the trip as, with his hoodie pulled over his eyes, he slept away the entire journey.

Despite Romana's assurances that we would soon reach the mountains, my first impression of Slovakia is its incredible flatness!! Mile after mile the train trundled comfortably through the countryside, past allotments complete with miniature allotment sized houses, smoke curling from their miniature chimneys as the family rested from their work.

We travelled through towns with decorative graffiti on the walls of large grey buildings,( in fact they graffitified most things that were not moving!!) we passed over level crossings while cars and trucks waited patiently for the barriers to rise. I was beginning to doubt the very existence of these snow covered mountains as hour after hour passed.

At last we began to climb, hills rose up either side of the tracks, trees replaced the towns and villages full of houses. The occasional house that we now saw tended to be wooden with a steeply sloping roof, elaborate attic windows and balconies.

From the train we caught a bus (having stopped briefly at the supermarket for supplies) that wound its way higher and higher into the mountains. By now even I was dozing as the coach rocked its way around the bends.

It was dark by the time we arrived in Donovaly, no snow lay on the floor but we were too tired to worry. A 500m climb up the hillside still awaited us, a climb that would be rewarded with beds, heating and hot hot showers!!

We were a tired but happy crowd when we reached the chalet.

Tomorrow we would see the snow, tomorrow we would hit the slopes, tomorrow we would hurtle down mountain sides oblivious to the dangers we faced. But for now ….. we put down our bags, washed our faces and crawled into bed. It was 8pm and tomorrow seemed a long way away!!!

Cyprus to Slovakia part 2

Part two …..

The story of the Skiing Trip actually started back in the August when I decided I was going to spend a week with Kris in Cyprus. Unable to take Cian out of school to come with me Peter announced that he would take Cian (his now 11yr old) Snow Boarding for his Christmas/Birthday present.

I was pleased for them, pleased that they would have a break away this winter and as I sat on the plane alone heading to the sun of the Cypriot coast, I gave it not a second thought.

My week with Kris was wonderful. I completed my Advance Open Water Diving course, I went windsurfing, paddle boarding, canoeing and swimming.

I created cities of sand much to the fascination of the German children staying in the Hotel. As my building grew they over-came their shyness edging ever closer to stand and stare. They began to chatter away in German that I could not understand so I politely nodded or smiled and continued my work.

Parents were dragged over to act as translators as the children grew more animated.”They are asking if they can help you?” one parent explained. “Of course!” I replied looking at the acres of empty beach. “They can create whatever they want!”

I set up mini building projects all over the flat sand, marvelling at the speed the children could extract the knives they required for their carvings from the restaurant! Bit by bit the children took over the construction until, quietly, I extracted myself on the pretence of a swim and left them all happily building!

We also had guests for dinner (four nights in a row) after one of the most amazing shopping trips ever. As part of Kristofer's contract, he is provided with a flat in the nearby village, He also gets all of his food and drinks supplied free of charge at the Aldiana Resort where he works. Very rarely does food make it home to the flat as his needs are met each day while he is at work.

At the airport pick up he had handed me a packet of crisps, a bottle of water and informed that he would take me shopping first thing in the morning as the cupboards were bare. He wasn't kidding about the cupboards!!

As we returned from the big supermarket in Kiti, 50 Euros lighter the next morning, Kris called into Smart to pick up some beer. “You get better deals here” he informed me with that knowing look people get after they have lived on a tight budget. Having loaded up the car with a crate or two of beer (I was here for a whole week!!) I wandered over to the vegetable stall outside gazing lovingly at the carry trays brimming with brightly coloured fruit and veg. I had just paid 3Euros for 5 small tomatoes in the supermarket, 2Euros for some garlic. Food was not as cheep as I remembered.

 I wandered along the stall spotting courgettes at the end. “How much?” I enquired from the toothless old man, he beamed and muttered something about 1Euro 50, I handed over a 2 Euro coin and went to put the courgette into my bag. “No, no!” he cried reaching for the carry tray, “you take all!”

I stared in disbelief as he poured the entire contents into a bag and handed it over. For a split second I thought he was about to charge me 1Euro 50 for every courgette and was about to argue that I only needed One but as his smile broadened I realised that 1Euro 50 bought the whole tray, filled to the very top with courgettes, not just ONE single piece.

I asked about the melons. 1 Euro 50 bought me a tray holding three shiny ripe melons. Tomatoes? Yes I got a tray full. Trays of peppers, onions, mushrooms and grapes were added to the growing collection of bags as my smiling Cypriot veg man pointed out more and more vegetables.

When Kris and I returned to the flat some major logistics were needed.

The Cypriot climate is warm, fruit and vegetables do not keep for long and we had a lot of fruit and vegetables.

Dinner parties and suppers were hastily arranged through a series of phone calls and our week was suddenly all planned out!

By mid week, Kris being in the 'lets party' mood and through a few more phone calls, had persuaded Peter to bring Cian and myself back over for half term (in a weeks time).

He had already explained his winter plans to me and felt that breaking them to Peter could be better done over a few beers in Cyprus than in Machynlleth.

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Back ground info to the Winter Plan - Kris passed his motorbike test way back in 2005. Two years later he left home, with his one way ticket to Cyprus, and had never felt the need to return to take his car license as transport around Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam was all bike orientated. When he got to the Bahamas he discovered that bikes were few and far between but as he was on the other side of the world he put it on his 'To Do' list.

In the Bahamas he was also informed that he needed a Local Licence to drive on the Island not his UK one and being the good law abiding citizen that he is, he duly took his Full UK Bike licence to the correct office and walked out 15 minutes later holding a Full Bahamas Car Licence valid anywhere in the world for two years!! So he bought a car!!

A year later he found himself back in Cyprus driving big trucks full of customers and towing one ton trailers full of dive gear all on a very suspicious yet legal license. Everything was going amazingly well until the licence ran out in August 2013! His choices, as he saw them, were to return to the Bahamas and try again to swap a full bike licence for a full car one or come home and take his test for real.

Option 2 seemed the more sensible but as he had no idea how long it would take him to pass his driving test after two years of bad habit forming Island driving he thought it would be a good idea to come back to the UK for five entire months until his new contract at the Hotel started up again in April of 2014!

Five months back in the UK with limited funds, no job, driving lessons to source and pay for, plus theory and practical tests to pass. I agreed that it would definitely be best to break this news to Peter over a few beers in the sun.

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I returned to the UK for three whole days before flying back out to Cyprus with Peter and Cian. Peter arranged for us to hire a car allowing us more freedom and shopping became so much fun!!

Our arrival was followed by yet another visit to the amazing veg man outside Smart. The shelves of the refrigerator were filled once more to bursting point, the cupboards were topped up and with our hire car Peter Cian and myself set out to explore the Island.

Most of my travels and explorations of lands over seas have involved a Rough Guide, sometimes a local map but more often a hand drawn scrawl on a scrap piece of paper and a lot of conversations at bus stops. I am now however the proud owner of an Iphone with its magic GPS Blue dot that travels around the world on some of the most comprehensive satellite and terrain detailed maps known to man. No longer do I end up wondering what way to go at a cross road, no longer do I miss that turn to the left that leads up the mountainside. Train stations are where they are suppose to be and postcodes can find you restaurants in amazing places.

 Some magic is lost as the Little Blue Dot works its way through the sprawl of a city, but with a child on board, a destination to reach before nightfall and no language skills it is worth its weight in gold!

 We travelled along the golden coast road before cruising onto the motorway, that by-passed the tangled maze of white shining apartments and offices in Limasol. We flowed smoothly over crossovers, sailed under bridges and navigated effortlessly through interchanges until we reached the mountain road that wound its way deep into the Troodos mountains.

 We passed huge dams (that were exactly where the Blue dot said they would be!!)

We stopped by the side of the road to peer over the sides into deep run offs.

We read 'interesting' signs full of information we knew nothing about!!

We strolled to the other wall and took photos of vast amounts of water

before driving slightly further along the winding road to photograph them again from a different angle!!

We ignored the Little Blue Dot to explore a road not on our map and discovered a Nature reserve abandoned and empty. The road continued to climb upwards giving us amazing views far over the lake down below.

Man hole covers had been lifted and possibly sold for scrap leaving gaping holes in the road – this was not a track to try at night!!

At the top of the mountain we were rewarded by spectacular views in all directions. From our view point the curvature of the earth could just about be made out through the heat haze that lingered in the air down to the coast.

There were also an alarming number of empty shotgun cartridges despite the large signs saying 'Nature Reserve - Shooting Is Prohibited' We wandered around an abandoned house over looking a steep gorge, discovered a 'No Shooting' sign decimated by shot gun pellets, peered down deep drains bereft of their covers and generally had a great time!

 We returned to the road upon the advice of our Little Blue Dot that then led us past a tiny turn off with an even tiny-er sign. Once again the Little Blue Dot was put away as we swung the car down the narrowing lane.

 Lophoy is a tiny tiny village nestled away from the road and hidden from the average tourist's sight.

 Cars must make it through the village's narrow cobbled streets as we saw them hidden between locked gates and wedged up 45 degree driveways but we were happy to leave our car on the outskirts and stretch our legs through the maze of steps and alleys.

 We explored tiny pathways that led us eventually to a church.

From the outside the church looked special enough but inside our eyes were met by a feast of gold plated intricate chandeliers that hung from the high vaulted ceiling to dangle a few inches about our heads. Every wall was covered with paintings, carvings, even the pews were decorated.

We stood in hushed awe feeling like invaders in our tourist clothing as the priest in full black regalia, complete with a huge gold cross hanging from his thick belt, stood quietly murmuring to a local man. They nodded as we entered yet seemed relieved when we left!

We continued our explorations down the wonderful crazy paving pathways.

We discovered the olive press but it was closed.

We found building that were falling down with hidden features to die for.

Floors designed with such detail!

We found buildings that were under repair but with no one in sight.

We heard voices from afar yet saw only three people as we worked our way round corners, up steps and down pathways.

We discovered houses, their shutters closed, silent within, with courtyards covered with grape vines.

Interesting wasp traps hung from the branches.

It was like wandering through the most amazing pristine ghost town, closed to the public yet somehow still alive.

Pomegranates hung ripened in the trees, sometimes spilling onto the floors and courtyards.

On the distance mountains we saw huge round satellite and communication monitoring equipment.

We checked the Little Blue Dot and discovered that Mount Olympus was in the not too far distance. We had a mission, we had a plan, we were off to see the home of Gods and be back in time for supper!!

To be continued …..