A New Face in Moorea

Life had been settling into a slow rhythmical routine. I rise at 6am each morning, I wash and potter around. I walk the dogs, I say my prayers. I tidy and I cycle, I swim and I read, I laze in the sun and I sing in the evenings. Life is calm,that is until last week!!


The arrival of Ric Welsh at the Kaveka restaurant on December 14th, following his discovery of an old article advertising Pape with his Autoharp, was a welcome sight, as apart from himself, there were only two other tables of customers. We sang and he clapped, we sang some more and he clapped some more.

At the end of the evening we asked what he did, how long he was on the island for and where he was staying, the usual questions one asks when some one has shown an interest in us. His answers were great. His ancestors were all Irish and so he sang Irish Songs around the Irish Bars of the US, he was in Moorea for a month, he had his guitar with him and he wanted to sing. He was also staying not that far from us!

By the time he had finished helping us to pack down (did I mention he is built like an Irish Navvy and can lift our speakers one in each hand!!!), Pape had offered him a lift back to where he caught his ride up the mountain and I had invited him to the house any time he wanted for a jamming session.

He called the next day!



With a time table of a 3pm pick up from Are (I have been calling it Harrys for months now thinking everyone around here was simply dropping their 'H's!! Oopps) Store for the following day, I called Jan to see if she wanted to come over and join us. She was delighted and so dinner was thrown into the plans. While Pape moved his furniture around Thursday lunchtime so that 4 people could actually fit into his room, I chopped and stirred, laid up a table with FOUR place settings, a feat now possible since Isabelles departure from the Island and her kindly donation of all her cutlery and bowls. Before Isabelle left I had 2 forks and 2 knives plus one spoon, none of which matching any of the other pieces! Entertaining has never been one of my Fathers priorities!

With the table laid, the food prepared, I waited upstairs while Pape fetched our guests. These were the first guests to be invited to the house since my arrival 4 months ago!! The afternoon passed in a haze of music, we knew none of Rics songs, he knew none of ours and so we entertained each other, even Jan took a turn.



The dogs were walked, dinner was served, tummys were filled and arrangements were made for Ric to sing with us in Le Sud the next evening!


Friday was a quiet day – I swam to the outer reef and back against the current! It took me ¾ of an hour of solid swimming to get out to the reef and about 10 minutes to drift swim back to the shore. But having failed to make it all the way out on my last two attempts, this time I made it and had the suntanned back to prove it!

At Le Sud we once again set up in record time as Ric lifted speakers onto stands with barely an intake of breath, let alone the grunt that escaped Pape's lips each time he heaves the heavy things onto their podiums. Leon was informed of Rics participation to the evening and was well pleased to accept some extra entertainment. Microphones were checked, sound levels were balanced and we were off.



It makes quite a change to be in the audience watching another performer, yet Rics voice is so powerful, his music so foot stomping up beat, that I also felt a touch daunted to get back onto the stage once he had done a turn! Follow that Kerriann!!



The evening went well, despite the quiet turn out (the week before Christmas is always quiet apparently) and plans were made to meet up in Lucianos Pizzeria (the BESTEST Pizza house in Moorea – have I said that before??) on the Sunday.



Saturday we played at Tipanier, Jan enjoying their wonderful cuisine while I devoured my usual bowl of Chocolate Glace – have I also mentioned that consumption of Glace has become one of my favourite pastimes??

Christmas decorations festooned the room, swaying gently in the evening breeze as I got Jan and Pape to stand by the enormous decorated tree for some photos.





Sunday was a clear sunny day, the rainy season does not seem to have read the rules of when and where it should appear this year. Pape had also unfortunately told Ric the wrong pick up time and as we sailed past the arranged point half an hour early, he remarked how disappointed he was that Ric had decided not to join us that evening.



Two hours later however, a rather tired Ric arrived at the restaurant wondering where we had been?? Luckily he had managed to get a life up and so once he had recovered his breath we gave him the stage, turning the microphone to virtually zero as his huge voice filled the small room!


The customers were delightfully entertained, Luciano was happy, Ric relaxed and smiled as he sang and a great night was had by all.


On the way back to the now familiar drop zone, we arranged to meet up once again for joint singing in Kaveka on the Tuesday. I asked what his plans were for the week. A visit to Tahiti had been mentioned earlier in the evening and I had said that I had yet to go myself, so a joint exploration of Papeete was arranged for the Wednesday.

My week was rapidly filling up!



Following my first unplanned epic circumnavigation of Moorea on November 22nd, I had recovered enough to cycled around the whole Island again the following week in the company of Jean Roche. I was now determined to make this marathon a regular event until I no longer staggered from the bicycle at the end of the journey, my knees trembling in burning exhaustion, my buttocks screaming out their protests as I tried to sit at my writing desk!



I had managed my next lone circumnavigation on the 10th of December and despite the usual protests from muscles and limbs, the recovery of said muscles and limbs was definitely more rapid than on previous trips. I was now cycling regularly to Ares Stores and had even made it to the small shopping precinct 8k away a few times.



While walking the dogs one evening Vava had cycled past and paused to chat. Vava is the most amazing soft spoken, positive, pretty woman who always seems to be smiling! We had met during a get together for Thanks Giving at Vivian and Toms house back in November.


She marvelled at my cycling antics and said she was determined to get fitter herself. We agreed to meet up and to begin a regular training session. Her ambition was to cycle around the entire Island and so we set ourselves the date of Lisa's arrival in February for Vava first circumnavigation and my date to be able to perform the feat without the usual resulting body racking tremors!



Monday morning, following our evening in Lucianos (the BESTEST Pizzeria in Moorea) Vava and I met up bright and early at 6.30am for our Cycle ride. The week before we had cycled to Tipanier and back together. Today we were aiming for the Petit Village a further 3k along the road.



The journey there was good. Vava's headphones helped her to keep a regular rhythm as we cycled, while I enjoyed the silent company and the encouraged speed. The return journey against the wind nearly killed us however! The hot breeze, that hadn't been that noticeable as we had cycled with it, turned into a furious frenzy of bike stopping gusts and constant heated aggression against our progress on the way back. It was like cycling with the brakes on into a huge fan oven! Not that either Vava or I have such complicated things like brakes or gears on our bikes!! (Or fan ovens for that matter!)

It was with heart felt gratitude that we pulled into her driveway, the wind ceasing the instant we entered in through the large wooden gates. We dined on dried Bananas much to her daughters delight, consuming huge amounts of water to go with them.



Monday night saw the Lunar Eclipse in all its glory. The night was clear and still, the wind having dropped during the day. Stars shone out in the dark sky, the moon was a single day from her true fullness and radiated light into the night. At 9pm as Pape and I sat out on the patio outside my rooms, the first shadow of the earth moved across her face. I snapped away with the camera.


With the flash on I was able to obtain a silhouetted crescent as the shadow of the earth took more and more light from the moon.

With the flash off however, I was able to capture both the shaded area and the sunlight side, the sun light areas shining with a brilliance not at all expected for a night shot on quick exposure!


I clicked away until the entire moon was enclosed within the shadow of the earth, its orangey glow haunting in the sky.




An hour passed as the huge volume of the earth journeyed through its slow trajectory between the moon and sun, the moon remaining a clear orange ball in the sky all the time.


Slowly the first glimmer of sunlight returned to touch its surface, the narrowest of crescents growing as I watched.





I clicked again and again with the camera, recording each moment of rebirth.



Clouds now lazed their way across the once clear sky, illuminated with wonderful colours as the brilliance of the moon shone through them.


It was midnight by the time the moon had returned to its full glory. I put the camera away in its case, put the batteries onto recharge and slid into bed.



Tuesday morning I cycled to Are's Store just to prove that I could cycle two days in a row! As I passed Ruthy's gate she called out to ask if Pape and I were singing that evening. I answered that not only were we singing but that we also had a guest artist! She said that she and Marion had decided to come out for the evening to see us and were looking forward to a night of entertainment.


I called Jan and asked if she too would like to come and hear Ric sing. Our evening was rapidly growing. With Rics aid, and having picked him up at the correct hour this time, we set up quickly and did the sound checks before anyone had arrived.

A few other tables were reserved and as we began our evening program the place filled up. Ric took the stage to thunderous applause as we introduced him as our 'Good Old Friend from Arizona, who, while visiting the Island to see us and despite his huge fame in the US, had agreed to perform with us tonight!'.



With the wonderful acoustics of Kaveka, we were able to appreciate Ric's voice all the more. The ladies and ourselves clapped in appreciation. Fellow guests added their own applause. In-between his turn at the stage, Ric sat surrounded by Ruthy, Marion and Jan and I remarked that this was turning out to be quite a sociable holiday for him!


The next day, Wednesday, dawned sunny and clear. Ric was collected from outside Ares at 8am and Pape drove us to the Ferry Terminal as, according to Jan, who checks everything for us at least twice the day before we do things, the Ferry was running with 'reduced engine power'(?) making the timetable a bit erratic!



While we waited to board the now 20 minute later than planned ferry boat, we met up with Vava in the waiting area, she was having a Mommy, Daughter day on the mainland (if Tahiti can be called the mainland!) and looked amazing. I introduced her to Ric while we waited and we all chatted about this and that.

The journey over was much smoother than the day of my arrival. Calm seas, bright sunshine saw us across the 12 miles of water in tranquil motion.


Ric has been to Moorea before, I can not recall when, but it was a few years back. Things had changed but had also not changed as he led us through the streets towards the indoor market.



I am not sure what I expected Papeete to be like, but I was surprised at the miss matched architecture and the run down state of some of the buildings, it was like a slightly (very slightly) up market Asia with silent cars!



Huge air-conditioning units hung to the sides of buildings, wide roads were thronged with rows of cars, all quietly waiting their turn. As we crossed the road at the zebra crossings cars actually STOPPED!!


This was totally confusing at first after all my travels through Asia. I haven't actually seen or used a crossing in Moorea to realise that cars actually STOP over here!! In Vietnam, Singapore, Malaysia, zebra crossings are just agreed points where cars, lorries, bicycles and pedestrians all intermingle in convoluted movements, all aware of each other and politely, if noisily, letting each other know of their presence. No one stops, for stopping causes confusion, and so I walked confused between the cars and found that they stopped! I felt positively guilty for this infringement to their journey and spent the whole day still not totally at ease with these new crossing regulations!


The market hall, the main shopping place of Papeete, is a large two story building with narrow shops running along the edge of the open upper floor and linked from one side to the other by spanned walkways that allow for some great photos shots of the lower areas.


Like Asia, the stalls are grouped according to product. Bags of all shapes and sizes fill table after table in their designated area.


Lotions, oils and arts, all slightly different, all very much the same, fill line after line of stall in another.


The Fresh Produce section lies buried beneath rich coloured fruits and vegetables. Fish and dairy products leave the floor decidedly slippery as you carefully move your way past.


Upstairs shell jewellery, sarongs of every colour and wooden crafts hang from the ceilings, adorn every wall and are stacked so high it is only with great care that you dare to touch.



We wandered from place to place, needing nothing, looking at everything.



Ric looked at some Ukuleles while I scanned every jewellery stall for a pair of delicate red coral earrings after loosing one of Christine's beautiful ones on my way over to Moorea.




We looked at hats,





we looked at necklaces I would be too afraid to wear in case I stabbed myself,





we looked at carvings





and mobiles,





my camera recording everything of interest ready for future projects.






Eventually we left the confines of the cool market and ventured back onto the heated streets.


The Notre Dam Cathedral has a lot to live up to with a name like that. Her sisters fame is known the world over and it was with some amusement I entered the doors of this 1875, delightful, but definitely smallish church.


The inside is refreshingly cool, the stained glass windows are magnificent and depict scenes from the Bible but with a Tahitian slant



Dark smiling faces are shown in the family that hugs and bonds, thick dark Tahitian hair cascades down the shoulders of the couple as they embrace.



Succulent bread fruit is held by the baby Jesus as he rests in the Virgins arms. We spend a moment in silent contemplation, observed by the locals as they sat in prayer, then we were respectably left to wander and gaze and stare as we walked the length of the 'Cathedral'.


Back on the streets I again marvelled at the difference in stately French influenced architecture, as it stood beside the more traditional shaped roofs, that sat above pure modernistic glass walls! We stopped in the shade of a small tree covered area to indulge in Glace, my most favourite pastime Anywhere! Running water flowed past and under a tiny foot bridge beside the table where we sat, children played and chattered, people wandered past on their way to here and there.


We resumed our wanderings, pausing to try to translate the writings on the large statue outside the government buildings. I didn't take a picture sorry but i did take one of a flower!!


As we meandered in the shaded walkways along the front street, the sound of music filled the air. Ahead, sitting happily on an arrangement of stools, chairs and benches, a group of well aged men played with wide smiles on a variety of instruments. Their music was witnessed by the passing walkers, many of whom, like us stopped for a while to listen and applaud.


The bass, which I found fascinating, consisted of an upside down bin with thick cord running from its centre and attached to the top of a stick. The tautness of the string, controlled by either the angle of the stick or the position of the hands, gave a rich twang to counterbalance the shrill sound of the ukuleles.

We stood with the crowd as the men happily played on.


Food, it was decided, was our next mission, once we had walked to the far end of town and back. We settled into an open airy restaurant overlooking the road and harbour. With a bit of guess work, a total change to the special board to request the Couscous Royal as a vegetarian dish, well I actually asked for a small bowl of couscous and a small salad but what I received was the Couscous Royal in a Vegetarian version, we settled down to await our lunch.


I remarked, as I watched the rest of the world rush by, Christmas shopping clutched beneath arms, bags bulging as people tried to pass each other, that I had often wondered how people ever found the time to 'Do Lunch'. Back in the UK I had been one of the crowd on the mission. No time to waste simply sitting and eating. Now however I was totally enjoying the experience of 'Doing Lunch' and wondered how long it would be before it became a regular part of my life!!


Ric laughed at my thoughts as trumpet music was heard in the distance. Within moments the trumpet, guitar, drummer and accompanying ensemble had walked through the restaurant and set up position right next to our table. I laughed loudly as Ric announced that he had arranged this purely to enhance my first visit to Papeete and I turned my attention to 'My personally arranged' entertainment.

I have the most entertaining video of My personal street performers but it won't load up over here so you are going to have to wait until I return to the UK and trust me why I say that they were brilliant!

They played and danced, they waved and smiled and as our meal was brought to the table, they moved on to entertain elsewhere.

Lunch was even more amazing. I had been expecting a small bowl of plain couscous and a green salad. What I received was enough couscous to feed three in one large dish, complete with what I was warned was a spicy sauce in a small pot in the middle. Beside this was another large pot that I can only describe as looking and tasting like a Moroccan Vegetable Tajine. This was served with a further two fist sized pots, one of chick peas in a delicious rich sauce and one of sweet onion chutney!! There was enough to feed a family. Ric heathenistic Cheese burger and fries came and once the chef had explain the various dishes on my 'Tray' we began to eat.

I so wish I had remembered to take a photos of the meal before I began, or even half way through!! It was amazing and I shall be returning with at least 3 other friends to share this meal again!!

Today though, I was alone in my attempt to eat this wondrous dish. Ric happily munched on his burger while I did round one. Round one took me to pleasantly full. Round two took me to Totally full. Round three took me to positively bursting and round four and five were just ridiculous!! Lunch by now had taken well over an hour and yet I had managed to finish everything except the hot hot sauce and a small amount of couscous. My friends will know of my huge ability to eat, as well as my inability to leave anything on a plate but on December 22nd 2010 I was beaten.

I waddled to the loos to find the only one for this huge restaurant occupied and leaving my neat foot prints on the just washed floor, I waddled back to the table to wait. The kindly waitress signalled the toilets availability and I waddled back noting that she was removing my latest foot prints as I went!

With lunch well under (and over) my belt, it was decided that some gentle exercise might be in order.


We approached a sign board outside the restaurant that I had commented on while we ate. This 'sign' was emitting tiny jets of fine water vapour as people passed and at the press of a button wonderful cooling jets of this fine vapour were released on mass to cool the awaiting button presser. I handed over my camera to Ric. I wanted a photo of this!!


I stood and pressed the button, it was bliss!! I pressed again and again, huge clouds of microscopic H2O flowing all around me. I laughed and pressed the button again, Oh the simple things in life please me so!!


Ric took a more stately and controlled blast of coolness, no weird pirouettes as one tried to rotate while keeping your finger on the button for him!



We meandered up into the shopping precinct, not because we wanted to go shopping but because we had been everywhere else. As we reached the top of the stairs we discovered a large crowd lining the walls around the open courtyard. Under a covered area in the middle a band had set up home and were about to begin their performance.


I turned to Ric with feigned surprise. More entertainment for me?? I questioned, he really was to much. He took the compliment in the same grain that it was delivered and we settled down to listen.

Again I have the most wonderful video of these guys and I went so far as to buy their album. Rich baritones voices blended with strong tenner vocals as the three main voices resonated around the courtyard. Guitar strings wapped and whoawed as pedals were pressed and released giving the most exquisite sounds. Our gentle exercise idea was abandoned as the afternoon passed by to the sounds of Reggie, Rap, Hawaiian and Revolution.


Once the music had finished, my CD autographed, we strolled along the promenade and admired the catamarans as they rocked slowly in the harbour.


We briefly debated whether Character outweighed Money and unanimously decided that although out hearts cried 'Character' our heads screamed 'Money' and the 50foot beauty lying 20m from us was simple the ONLY way to travel!!


Our return journey was as smooth and as calm as our first, although we did make a mistake of sitting once more in the very front seats, that did indeed give the most wonderful view, but were now washed by the full force of the sun as it was magnified through the glass. We sat and waited, wondering when the air con was going to hit in, our conversation wilting under the full assault of heat that was streaming over us. 100m from Moorea we decided that it just wasn't going to happen and it was with grateful relief that we entered the shade of Moorea's anchorage.

The final part of our adventure was to find our way home, I know I live at 12.9 but the name of where always eludes me. I plumbed for asking for Cooks bay figuring that once heading in the right direction I could work out the hows and wherefores later. Our first enquiry at the big yellow bus standing at the side of the terminal, got us pointed in the direction of the only other bus in the vicinity, well we had had a 50/50 chance of getting it right. We climbed aboard, paid our fee and settled in the only available seats right in the back. A packet of crisps had been emptied over two of the seats ready for our return trip should we become hungry, but I was still totally full from 'Doing Lunch' and so we passed.

At Ares Store Ric got out as I continued over 'The Hill'.

Today, the day of the Tahiti adventure, was Wednesday, Thursday I am meeting Jean for another bike ride, Friday I am singing in Tipanier for Christmas Eve, Saturday I have invited Ric and Jan over for Christmas Dinner, and Sunday I have a cycle ride around the whole Island with Ric to accomplish. That then leaves my usual ride out with Vava on the Monday, Singing in Kaveka on the Tuesday, and a day kayaking to fit in somewhere along the line too. It is going to be another busy week but that will be another set of photos!