Settling into Cherai Beach

Days start early in India and Cherai Beach was no exception. 

By 6am the neighbours had been up for an hour at least, voices, throat clearing, morning ablutions as well as the aroma and clatter of cooking filled the air. 

By 7am the children of the house were fed, washed and dressed in crisply pressed uniforms ready for their rides to school. Ippy and I headed for the beach for an early morning walk enjoying the solitude of the deserted beach.

By 10am we were relaxing on the beach and swimming in the sea.

By 12 noon Ippy and I were showered and heading to La Cafe for lunch on the balcony! 

As the sun reached its zenith, pounding down upon the dust dry ground we happily sat in the shade looking out over the sea.

Food was served along with drinks and I once again ate my fill as Ippy relaxed beside me.

Although Ippy usually travels alone during the winter months, visiting her children and having adventures, this year, apart from myself, her long suffering partner, who for the past 7 years had been abandoned for the winter months, was going to join her with his two children. Eager for news but also aware of the 8 hour time difference, we opened up the laptop and signed into the internet.

“How's it going?” Ippy typed into Facebook.

“NO Visa's for the children yet!” Came the reply.

Ippy, being the ever organised one, had booked her ticket to India months in advance, she had also sent the visa applications for herself and Peter off in October receiving the approved stamp in both passports less than a week later. 

The children's passports were a bit more complicated requiring a letter proving custody etc and although they had been posted only a week after Ippy and Peter's, they still hadn't been returned when Ippy had left the country.

With only three days left before their flight, things were getting tight! Peter planned to make a few calls that day to find out what the delay was.

We agreed to call the next day for an update and then as the sun dropped slightly we headed back into town for another 2,000 rupees!

The next day there was still no news on the visa's!

We spent the day relaxing best we could, swimming in the rolling waves and chatting with Jomon who worked in La Cafe. Jomon was studying tourism in college while working in the Cafe to pay his way and to gain experience.

Ippy and myself were the only customers all afternoon and as we were only drinking water, we worried that business wasn't good.

“Wait until weekend,” he smiled,

“Everyone comes here on weekends!”

We ordered some food,

 and soon finished it!

So we following it with banana fritters complete with hot chocolate sauce and ice cream!

On Thursday while we sat in the cafe waiting for news Ippy asked Jomon if he could help her to get a coconut.

Each day as we had walked to La Cafe, Ippy and I had passed three ladies selling coconuts.

Each lady was in fierce competition with the other, not only guarding their ten foot space against each other but even going so far as to shout at customers who walked past them only to buy a coconut next door.

Ippy, although she wanted a coconut, had no idea who to order a coconut from without upsetting the other ladies. From the safety of the balcony and with Jomon help, we spent the afternoon dining on fresh coconut juice and flesh.

My first taste of fresh coconut was amazing!

By Friday Ippy was getting really worried.

Not about how quiet the restaurant was but because there was still no news on the Visa's.

As the day wore on we sat in the shade of the balcony was workmen bent steel and dug trenches by hand behind us.

Peter and the children were due to fly out in the early hours of the next morning but without the paperwork they wouldn't be allowed onto the plane let alone into the country!

We sat in the restaurant all day waiting for news. Mid afternoon the power went off throwing the entire area into silence.

In many of the rural areas of India a constant uninterrupted power supply is a rarity and normally Ippy embraced the power free moments as stereos and sound systems shut down leaving the sounds of life to filter through.

Today however she was desperate for news and no power meant no internet.

There was still no news as the sun headed down towards the sea. In the UK Peter and the children would need to leave for the airport in less that 4 hours and we still didn't know if they had visa's.

Jomon had been right about the weekend trade too as for the last two hours coach upon coach loads of people had been arriving from the city and surrounding area ready to enjoy a weekend of relaxation.

Even without power the tables soon filled up with people ordering food and drinks while the road outside turned into a traffic jam as everyone searched for somewhere to park up while they ate or swam.

Coast guard whistles could be heard as people fully dressed in bright coloured saris and fine dresses filled the waters, screaming with fear and excitement as the waves dragged at their feet or knocked them over with their friends.

Suddenly a text message came through. “Visa's just arrived, on our way!”

The smile on Ippys face was incredible! 'Lets go celebrate!' she announced swinging me up from my chair!

We had been sitting in or around La Cafe for two days waiting for news, although the food was amazing Ippy was ready for a change and together we headed up the beach to the Chill Out Cafe.

We walked along the beach past the newly erected beach stalls selling everything from fast food to shorts and flip flops.

The large open area beyond the beach wall was now totally full people spilling out of buses and coaches, laughing and calling to each other. Some called out to us as we walked and Ippy happily sat with a few while they took pictures of us all.

Knowing Peter and the children were on their way had taken a huge weight from Ippys shoulders and she was more than happy to share the happiness she felt.

The Chill Out Cafe, opened by a French man who met his wife in India while helping her to fix her shoe, boasts a totally Non Chilli menu!

They also had power!

Pizza, Pasta, burgers both vegetarian and meat adorned the menu, chips, toasted sandwiches, and desserts people can only usually dream of, have deservedly put this place on the Cherai Beach map.

We took a table overlooking the sea and ordered a pizza to share.

The sun set, casting the beach into shadows, while far down the beach the huge football stadium style spot lights shone like a huge beacon illuminating the large crowd enjoying the beaches night time activities.

Our pizza was truly amazing and after a week of being nearly dairy free, the four cheese overload hitting me half way through but I bravely battled on until an empty platter lay between Ippy and myself.

I rested, allowing the cheese to work its way through my body, until Ippy decided it was time to go home walking us back down to the now thinning crowds by the 'T' junction.

In 24 hours Peter and his children would arrive and a whole new adventure would begin!

Cherai Beach

Exploring a new place can be such fun!

Once we had unpacked our bags Ippy and I sat down with Markesh and his wife Genna and talked about our plans for the next few days.

Peter and the children were arriving in 5 days time but until then Ippy and I had all the time in the world to explore. We also had money we needed to change so a quick walk back into town was planned.

Without our bags the walk was easy.

High hazy clouds covered the sky as we walked back along the road to the bridge that passed over the back water.

The road was deserted save for the odd motor cycle that pottered past.

Large fishing nets hung limply in the water awaiting the evening when lamps would be lit to attract the fish into its reaches.

Birds perched in branches waiting to pounce on any fish out a little early.

In the hazy light of the afternoon the entire place had a serenity to it that I found quite beautiful.

As Ippy and I walked we decided that Cherai Beach was not your usual tourist destination.

Ippy had described some of the other areas of India she had stayed in as we had travelled, the brightly coloured shops and cafes of Varkala, the multitude of beach shacks at Arambol, the tree houses of Pandolim.

All had developed into what they were today as a result of tourism, mainly catering to European tourists. Cherai Beach had a different feeling to it quite unlike anything Ippy had felt before.

Genna had told us that all the main shops and banks were located at Cherai Junction, "Bottom of the road and turn right!" were her exact words.

As soon as we hit the main road all the calmness of the walk disappeared!

Horns blasted through the late afternoon air, fumes belched from buses so full of people it was a wonder they could move at all.

The one foot wide pavement disappeared under grass or boulders every few feet and yet it was wonderful.

The bustle and movement of Indian towns can be overwhelming, the chaos frightening, the bureaucracy of getting things done soul destroying yet it is what makes India like no other place in the world.

At the Money Changers we were told they had no money and to go to the Bank. At the Bank we were told to go to the ATM. When we explained we had old money we wanted to change everyone looked blank and shook their heads.

We tried a second Bank, then a third.

“You need to pay it into an account!” the confused teller told us after we had queued in three different places for ten minutes each.

“You have an account?”

It was our turn to look confused.

The value of the money we had came to about £20 so Ippy wasn't worried about getting the actual money, she just didn't want the notes she had going to waste, if they needed to go into an account she knew exactly how to do it.

We walked downstairs to the ATM to get some 'real' money out only to find that there was a limit of 2,000 rupees on every transaction due to the newly introduced 2,000 rupee bank note.

The last time Ippy had been in India she had been able to withdraw 10,000 rupees each transaction.

With our room costing 500 rupees and food at least another 500 rupees we both realised there would be quite a few more walks to town if we were to get enough money together to survive the two months!

We headed back to the Homestay just as it was getting dark only to be greeted by enthusiastic children bursting from the lounge.

For the next hour storybooks were found, pictures were drawn and laughter filled the air as we all got to know each other.

As official homework hour started within the house, Ippy and I took the opportunity to go for a walk in search of our evening meal.

We walked the 20m to the beach front turning left at the 'T' and within 10m located La Cafe with a great balcony restaurant, cool music, a vegetarian friendly menu and free WiFi.

A cool breeze blew in off the sea, fairy lights twinkled in the wind, friendly staff chatted as delicious food was served and e-mails were sent.


As Ippy and I walked back to the Homestay we had already decided that this was going to be an amazing place to stay.

********************************

India Part 2 - Airport to Cherai Beach

There are two main ways to travel in India, the Tourist way and the Local way.

Even though by UK prices the tourist way is very cheep there is something quite special about travelling the Local way, after all do we not travel to gain new experiences?

Ippy and I awoke the next morning feeling quite refreshed. We packed up our few things and we headed out onto the bust streets of India.

Even this early in the morning cars, lorries and buses raced by beeping their horns and throwing dust and fumes into the morning air.

By talking to the boys on the front desk of the place we stayed we had already worked out we needed to get a few buses to Cherai Beach but the day was young, we had plenty of time and I was more than happy to ride in Ippy's back pack and enjoy the view.

The first bus we caught from outside our hotel took us 5km to a busy intersection in Alway town.

This surprised Ippy as I as we thought we were already in Alway!

There was a bit more confusion as we got off and asked everyone where we needed to go to catch the bus to North Paravur. Various people smiled and pointed across the 6 lanes of traffic to the other side. 

Lorries and vehicles of all shapes and sizes rushed by in a solid block of intertwined chaos along the road beside us. Luckily there were traffic lights about 10 m away as crossing roads in India is exciting at the best of times let alone when there are 6 lanes to transverse!

On the far side, when we asked where the bus station was, someone pointed us back across to where we had come from! It was only when we mentioned North Paravur that and Cherai Beach that they smiled and pointed to a tiny bus stand under some trees.

As we approached, Ippy confirmed with the people standing there that we were at the right place to catch the bus to North Paravur. 

There are times Ippy explained, when being totally self sufficient and knowing what you are doing without help is a good thing, but there are also times when seeming a little lost and vague can be much more useful. 

I looked confused until a bus pulled up and no less than three people eagerly informed us this wasn't the one we wanted as Ippy went to climb aboard.

When the bus we did need arrived the entire bus stand encouraged us to climb in, some even helping us to find a seat!

People smiled while children stared at me as the bus bounced its way along the bumpy roads that wound through the country side leading to the next town.

More and more people crowded onto the bus as we travelled filling the walk way and even the steps.

Just when it seemed the bus would burst if one more person were allowed on we entered the outskirts of the town and everyone disappeared! 

By the time we drove into the bus depot there was only Ippy and myself plus the driver and ticket man aboard!

"Where do we get the bus to Cherai Beach?" Ippy asked as we got off. 

We were pointed to a road that ran parallel to the bus depot. 

We had a direction if nothing else!

As we walked towards the road we passed stalls selling the most amazing food. Samosa's, tiny savoury buns, cookies with bits of chilli sticking out of the side. 

Ippy bought us three different savoury things as a snack and although some of them were a little spicy they were amazing. Ippy explained that the majority of the snack and street food in India is vegetarian making it a perfect place for her to eat!

When she had been to the Philippines however, nearly ALL the street food there was chicken and port with a bit of fish thrown in for good measure. Apart from some crispy seaweed and rice she had struggled to eat from the road side cafes but in India she was in her element!

With our snacks consumed we headed for the main road and began the usual questions about where we should go. People really do like to help and before long we were standing at another tiny bus stop under a tree while people advised us which bus we needed.

Normally Ippy does quite a bit of research on any new areas she visits but this trip she was just going with the flow as life had been pretty hectic in the UK right until she left. 

When we got off the bus two stops past Cherai Junction we really had no idea where we were. 

The ticket man pointed to a narrow lane, 'Beach' was all he said as we dismounted.

By now it was mid day and blazing sun shone from a cloudless sky above us. The lane was surrounded by trees giving welcomed shade and with no other ideas we began to walk. 

And walk.

When people say 'Beach' and no more when pointing to a narrow lane, one needs to be aware that said beach may not be just the other side of said lane.

 Ippy walked on through the lane which eventually joined another slightly wider lane,

which eventually joined a road, which led to a bridge,

that went over a wide back water, that separated Cherai beach from the mainland!!!!

Cherai Beach turned out to be a long narrow strip of land, in some places only 100m wide, that runs down the coast in the district of Ernakulam, Kerela. 

One end finishes 20km south at Vypin Island where you can catch a ferry to Fort Kochi. The other ends 5km away at another ferry terminal that takes you north. 

Having walked the 2.5km from the bus stop along the only road for miles, we now had the decision of turning right or left to look for accommodation!!

We paused at the 'T' junction to sit on one of the large stones beside the beach, enjoying the cooling breeze as it washed over us. 

The beach stretched into the distance in both directions, 20 m wide with soft rolling waves breaking onto the shore.

“You need room?” a helpful voice called from a rickshaw parked beside the road.

“We are just resting for a few moments,” Ippy called back smiling. “

“I have room if you want to see? Good Price!” the voice sounded hopeful but not pushy.

Ippy smiled.

So many times she had found a room this way but we were in no rush and so we sat for a while longer.

When we eventually rose our friendly rickshaw driver stepped from his cab.

“Please, let me show you room!” He waved at us to follow him across the road and with nothing better to do we followed.

Building work was taking place above the building, sand and cement lay in bags and on the ground. A huge pit had been dug for a drainage pipe that we negotiated via a plank! 

“Sorry for the mess,” he apologised leading Ippy and myself into what appeared to be his lounge.

All over India there are places called Homestays, peoples houses where they take in guests to boost their income. 

There are the occasional places that call them selves Homestays but have been build purely for guests, this Homestay however was indeed a home!

We were shown to a large room with two double beds pushed together making a huge sleeping platform. 

Sheets and a few bits of clothing were being hastily removed as we entered. 

It had an attached bathroom, a small side table and a large wardrobe that the bits of clothing were being pushed into.

It was a nice room and Ippy said so asking how much it would be to stay. 

“500 Rupees” the rickshaw driver beamed. 

Although Ippy hadn't been to India for a while this seemed quite a lot for a room. She told the nice man that we would go for a walk and think about it. He smiled back and led us out over the plank and cement.

The last time Ippy had been to India her budget for rooms had been rearer 300 Rupees a night, there was no harm having a look around she told me and as I wasn't the one walking in the hot sun who was I to argue!

We decided to head North along the only road that ran the length of the island parallel to the beach. 

We stopped occasionally to admire the flowers and to ask about rooms but by the time we had asked four times we were realising that 500 Rupees was cheep!

A simple room, all be it beautifully finished was going to cost us 1,500 Rupees a night!! In a simple resort (a complex of rooms around a courtyard) they were asking 2,000!

3km later we ran out of rooms and resorts!!

Even though the sun was now dropping in the sky slightly, it was still hot. What breeze there had been when we had started walking had stopped and of all the places we had seen none had been nicer than the Rickshaw drivers room and none had been worth what the people were asking for them.

After all a bed is a bed and with a beach so beautiful we were only planned to sleep in the room.

We returned to the 'T' junction and the smiling rickshaw man.

“You still have the room?” Ippy asked.

He beamed and carried our bags into the now spotless room.

We had arrived at Cherai Beach!

A Fox in India (Repeat)

They say everything happens for a reason …... some things we understand straight away, others take longer to realise and still others we never understand.

When Ippy reached up her hand and took me from the shelf in Porthcawl, I had no idea what would become of me.

I trusted I would find a good home with her as she had a kind smile.

Never in my wildest dreams could I imagine what an adventure awaited me ….....

Let me introduce myself. My name is Felurian Fox.

Some say I am just a fluffy toy, but others, those who know the way of the Fae know there is much to this world than meets the eye.

They say a soul has no beginning and no end, they say that time is just a concept of the mind.

What ever you personally believe eventually becomes your reality and so it is that I, Felurian, for whatever reason, exist.

But let us not dwell of the magic that fills our world, let me tell you a story about my adventure in INDIA!!

Many people have a fear of flying.

Stepping into a huge metal container puts them outside of their comfort zone. The lack of control, the unexplained or understood principle of engineering leaves them feeling vulnerable and afraid.

Luckily for me, I simply trust in the good of all things and so it was with excitement that I jumped into the top of Ippys travel bag and boarded a train that would take us to Birmingham airport to catch a flight to Deli.

Airports are huge places and can be a bit intimidating for the first time traveller.

 Ippy and I made it through all the scans and checks, directed from place to place by smiling faces.

Ippy pointed out that even if you don't know where to go or what to do, you can always just follow someone else or you can put a blank expression on your face and ask!

People always like to feel helpful and if someone looks lost they just love to help you out!

We went window shopping in the wonderfully lit stores that lined the edges of the terminal.



One amazing lady came over and offered to help us find a nice perfume for the trip after I had inadvertently sniffed loads of men's aftershave looking for a nice smell!

She sprayed us liberally when Ippy pointed out that this was the only time she ever wore perfume, I even got a little behind my ears!

The Lady was so nice that Ippy told her a poem.

We all had a lovely time chatting and laughing and when it was time to say goodbye we had a huge group hug.

I gave her a big wave from the back of the travel bag as Ippy went to look for our flight gate.

The flight was uneventful as such, Ippy slept most of the way only waking for a quick chat when our wonderful food arrived.

She soon went back to sleep as I gazed out of the window into the vast blackness of the sky. Clouds drifted by far below, stars shone high above and at some point I must have drifted off to sleep myself.

I awoke most confused. Through the window a huge full moon shone brightly!

Bright enough to illuminate the surface of the clouds far below with an eerie purple to blue tinge.

I woke Ippy to ask her if this was indeed the moon as when we had left the moon had been a small crescent in the sky.

She looked as confused as myself at this huge bluey ball hanging in the sky, she even took some pictures of it!

In the seats behind us someone else remarked on the strange phenomenon outside the window, until their travel companion pointed out that the windows didn't have shades and therefore automatically dimmed to a deep blue to protect us from the suns rays.

As the person behind us pressed the button to reduce the intensity of the blue, we did the same.

Daylight filled our eyes and I can tell you now, we both felt a little foolish.

In Deli we read and chatted for a while until our flight to Kochi was called.

Everyone got up and stood in a line that seemed to reach forever down the room and corridor but Ippy and myself just moved seats to sit right next to the gate and continued our reading.

When the last person reached the gate we put away the Kindle, stood up and walked straight through to the plane and our seat.

It is so easy when you know how!

Over a glass of refreshing orange juice on the plane, Ippy explained that although we had no idea where we would stay that night I wasn't to be concerned.

“Taxi drivers always know the best places,” she informed me, “We'll just ask one!”

Nearly all India Airports have prepaid Taxis available, you book them at a desk just inside the terminal before you leave.

If you don't know exactly where you are going they are very useful as they can save you from all the shouting and chaos outside.

Things were going really well until Ippy tried to pay with some rupees she had saved from her last trip.

“I am sorry,” said the nice lady,
“This is old money, we can not take old money. You must go change it with the Money Exchange or pay with your card.” 

We wandered back inside the main terminal, explaining to the customs man why we were going the wrong was as we went, but at the Money Exchange they also couldn't change the notes!!

In the confusion a travelling man with a suitcase offered to change all the small notes for a bigger one. Ippy looked confused as he handed her a 100 rupee note the same as the ones she held in her hand.

 “Those ones are OK,” he explained, “It is just the big notes that are out of date.”

 We added up all the notes that were still in use and realised we had plenty for the Taxi plus a nights stay somewhere.

Tomorrow we would go to the bank and change the old notes for new and everything would be fine.

True to Ippys word our Taxi driver knew of a few places we could stay, the first one was very nice but too expensive so he took us to another place.

This place had rooms and dormitories and the face of the manager when Ippy said she would sleep in the dorm was a picture!! He insisted we stayed in one of the twin rooms for a hugely reduced price!

We didn't need to unpack much as we would be leaving in the morning so we went for a walk to the corner and back.

Ippy smile was amazing as we walked the streets, the smells and sights were all new to me but to Ippy it was like being back in a familiar place, even though she had never been to North Kerela either!

We both slept well until 3am and then we both woke up and were wide awake!

It would take a while for our body clocks to change to India time, so we read for a while and then went back to sleep. 

Tomorrow we planned to head to the coast, this Ippy mumbled as she fell asleep, usually involved lots of asking and lots of busses!