Cherai Beach

Exploring a new place can be such fun!

Once we had unpacked our bags Ippy and I sat down with Markesh and his wife Genna and talked about our plans for the next few days.

Peter and the children were arriving in 5 days time but until then Ippy and I had all the time in the world to explore. We also had money we needed to change so a quick walk back into town was planned.

Without our bags the walk was easy.

High hazy clouds covered the sky as we walked back along the road to the bridge that passed over the back water.

The road was deserted save for the odd motor cycle that pottered past.

Large fishing nets hung limply in the water awaiting the evening when lamps would be lit to attract the fish into its reaches.

Birds perched in branches waiting to pounce on any fish out a little early.

In the hazy light of the afternoon the entire place had a serenity to it that I found quite beautiful.

As Ippy and I walked we decided that Cherai Beach was not your usual tourist destination.

Ippy had described some of the other areas of India she had stayed in as we had travelled, the brightly coloured shops and cafes of Varkala, the multitude of beach shacks at Arambol, the tree houses of Pandolim.

All had developed into what they were today as a result of tourism, mainly catering to European tourists. Cherai Beach had a different feeling to it quite unlike anything Ippy had felt before.

Genna had told us that all the main shops and banks were located at Cherai Junction, "Bottom of the road and turn right!" were her exact words.

As soon as we hit the main road all the calmness of the walk disappeared!

Horns blasted through the late afternoon air, fumes belched from buses so full of people it was a wonder they could move at all.

The one foot wide pavement disappeared under grass or boulders every few feet and yet it was wonderful.

The bustle and movement of Indian towns can be overwhelming, the chaos frightening, the bureaucracy of getting things done soul destroying yet it is what makes India like no other place in the world.

At the Money Changers we were told they had no money and to go to the Bank. At the Bank we were told to go to the ATM. When we explained we had old money we wanted to change everyone looked blank and shook their heads.

We tried a second Bank, then a third.

“You need to pay it into an account!” the confused teller told us after we had queued in three different places for ten minutes each.

“You have an account?”

It was our turn to look confused.

The value of the money we had came to about £20 so Ippy wasn't worried about getting the actual money, she just didn't want the notes she had going to waste, if they needed to go into an account she knew exactly how to do it.

We walked downstairs to the ATM to get some 'real' money out only to find that there was a limit of 2,000 rupees on every transaction due to the newly introduced 2,000 rupee bank note.

The last time Ippy had been in India she had been able to withdraw 10,000 rupees each transaction.

With our room costing 500 rupees and food at least another 500 rupees we both realised there would be quite a few more walks to town if we were to get enough money together to survive the two months!

We headed back to the Homestay just as it was getting dark only to be greeted by enthusiastic children bursting from the lounge.

For the next hour storybooks were found, pictures were drawn and laughter filled the air as we all got to know each other.

As official homework hour started within the house, Ippy and I took the opportunity to go for a walk in search of our evening meal.

We walked the 20m to the beach front turning left at the 'T' and within 10m located La Cafe with a great balcony restaurant, cool music, a vegetarian friendly menu and free WiFi.

A cool breeze blew in off the sea, fairy lights twinkled in the wind, friendly staff chatted as delicious food was served and e-mails were sent.


As Ippy and I walked back to the Homestay we had already decided that this was going to be an amazing place to stay.

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