Open Water Training Begins - Part 14

Saturday 11th April

Kris hadn't surfaced by 10.30am, not that I was surprised. Happy to have a day to myself again I wandered off to the beach. I was relaxing in my now perfected side browning technique, when a European guy came up to check I was OK. Well I was lying in the recovery position so I could see his point. We sat and chatted for ages. His name was John and he had just retired after a life of working in places like Algeria. He was a helicopter something or other, I didn't quite understand but he flew and maintained them for a private company or had done until his retirement earlier that year. Now he was just wandering.....

We talked and swam, then talked some more. Eventually the sun was too much for both of us. We agreed to meet again on the beach at some random point in the following week, should we find ourselves there at the same time and said our good byes.

To be truthful I cant actually remember what we did the rest of the day as I didn't write notes past 'met Kris for late lunch, had takeaway for supper - watched films!'

But it was Kris's day off and it passed the way he wanted. Quietly - to help with his hangover.


Sunday 12th April

It is so surreal having your own son as a teacher. First test – swim 200 meters and tread water for 10 minutes and I taught him to swim! OK the first test actually happened in the classroom. Having watched two DVD's on Chapter 1 and 2 we were given a quiz to see if we were paying attention. There are three of us doing the PADI Open Water over the next three days, Angel and Tobias with Joe and myself with Kris. Quizzes completed it was off to the pool for some skills.

The swim was easy as Kris knew it would be, Joe wondered about his two clients as they breast stroked, side stroked, sculling for a bit, their way down the pool. With 4 lengths of the 50 meter pool to do they were going to be a while. I was just finishing my 10 minutes of treading water when they began theirs.

Joe and I had been discussing how long scuber divers, who are never suppose to hold their breath, can hold their breath for. (One has to do something while treading water for 10 minutes!) Kris, he said, was the best out of them all, but it was close. I suggested they introduced a length swim, underwater, of the pool as an induction to any new instructors joining their ranks - once they had learnt to do it themselves that is. Kris said I could go first. I got ¾ of the way up. Kris got 10 foot further, blaming the cigarette he had just smoked for his lack of distance! With the proficiency tests all finished, we began our lessons.

How to set up your regulator. Do check the 'O' ring. Mine looked a bit frayed but without my glasses I couldn't tell if it was the O ring or the metal that looked wrong so I said nothing. It blew one minute later as I picked up the completed rig to take it to pool side! I wouldn't have minded but I had just finished attaching the BCD jacket and Regulator and had to do it all again! Regulator off. New O ring, change the bottle and all back on again. Practice makes perfect they say so I smiled and carried on.

The pool work was brilliant and I had no problems, apart from lifting my kit to carry it to pool side. Those things are heavy full! I did get a fit of giggles when we were doing the levitation exercise which just made me bob up and down under the water more wildly. The idea is to grab your fins so you sit in a sort of lotus position, then with your lung capacity, you control your buoyancy. Unfortunately when I grabbed my fins I fell over, not that you can fall over under water, but the sensation of falling and trying to correct it, which is just as pointless, got me giggling. The giggling made me breath deeper and not exactly with control, which in turn made me float and sink faster. Kris wrote in the film covering the tile on the pool wall 'LOOK HERE' meaning for me to stay level with it. As I passed it repeatedly in both directions, my laughter increased until Kris abandoned the whole exercise and we did something else until I calmed down.

The mask removal exercise made water go up my nose which gave me a coughing fit followed by the biggest underwater burp going. This got Kris laughing and the teaching disintegrated further. We had however finished all the skills within an hour, including the optional bubble ring blowing lesson! I was at home under the water and Kris was happy with my abilities. He went over to Joe to help him with his students while I stayed close and perfected some of my skills – fin pivots, levitation and no mask breathing (without the laughter) being the ones requiring the most work.

All the pool work was finished by 3.30pm, the mini bus was called and we returned to the dive shop to find out Simon had arrived back a day early. He was fine about me starting the course early and was rapidly trying to catch up on what had gone on in his absence. Kit was washed and stored, we were given our home work for the evening and I headed to the beach with my books to wash away the smell of chlorinated water.

Half way through my studies that afternoon on the beach, I realised I didn't have a RDP chart. I was nearer to the dive shop than Kris so I went to ask Simon if I could buy one from him. He said to save my money as Kris was bound to have one somewhere I could use. I went off to find Kris. He didn't have a clue where his chart was but Joe offered me his and Amanda offered me her instruction booklet. Armed with my new supplies I went to sit on my balcony only to discover that Joe's RDP Chart was in Meters and Amanda's instruction book was illustrated in Feet!! I tried converting from one to the other to check my answers but after half an hour abandoned the whole thing and returned to find Kris. He checked my workings and confirmed my answers.

Kris, Joe and Matt were on their way out for the evening leaving Amanda ensconced in front of the TV with a pile of DVDs. Her first choice was a film called JUMPER, one I had heard about but never seen. Kris said I was allowed to stay up and watch it IF I had finished all my home work!! I promised to stay up late instead! This was just getting too weird!!

Lazy Day in Nha Trang - Part 13

Friday 9th April

Amanda had said to call for her this morning so we could do a bit of shopping together. I awoke quite early but as it was her day off, I decided she possibly wouldn't appreciate a 7am call. To allow her a lie in, I picked up my book to read in the morning sun that was shining into my room and onto the blue tiled balcony.



At 10am I walked around to the house, only to find silence and locked doors. I called, knocked a few times and deciding if she could sleep through all that she must need the rest, I left! I returned to the apartment, threw a few things into my bag and headed to the beach.

The sea and breeze were wonderful. A bit of sun, a bit of sea, a touch more sun before another soak in the warm rolling swells. The sun is directly overhead by 11am and stays there until well after 2.30pm. A walking tan is not an option in this country, as the only bit that catches the sun is the top of your head, shoulders and feet! Getting my sides brown involved lying in the recovery position with the side for browning pointing up towards the sun. The things I will do for a tan!

Having burnt so easily already, I kept a careful eye on my skin. By 1pm it was time to walk away and find some shade. I still hadn't had a chance to talk to Kris about bringing the dates of my Open Water course forward. Tomorrow was his day off, if I could start on the Sunday I would be finished by the Tuesday. I also needed to book a flight for Friday from Saigon to Bangkok. This would mean leaving Nha Trang on the Thursday night bus. Time was passing much too quickly.

Back on my balcony, I picked up the Open Water Manual I had brought with me and began to read. The afternoon passed in a calm haze of Orange Fanta, Peanut Crackle and dive information. With chapter 1, 2,and 3 safely stored in my memory, I showered. Kris had text to say they were all just watching TV at the house and to come around when ever I wanted. Clean and refreshed I wandered around.

They had set up a large fan in the lounge, bottles filled the table, a film was just starting, cushions were moved as I settled with them for the first part of the evening. It was a great film with Eddie Murphy as an alcoholic drop-out super-powered android! I think you have to see the film to appreciate that statement and understand!!

As it finished Kris announced he had a problem! He had been invited to a Pub Crawl and wasn't sure what to do with me. I laughed as I had been there when the pub crawl had been discussed the night before and knew all about it. I said it was fine. I would come for the first one but would then leave them all to it. It was his day off tomorrow so he deserved a good night out! He hugged me and got ready.

The Pub Crawl idea was the brain child of a local boy. He wanted to make money he explained but unless you worked in a bar or were a Diving Instructor there wasn't much you could do in Nha Trang. His theory was that a lot of tourists and travellers passed through the city with only a short time to discover the place. For a set price he was offering an organised Pub Wander. He had been to the various bars selling his idea, 7 had signed up to his idea so far. He would bring his 'Party' to their bar in exchange for free shots. Each bar offered something different, a bit like the Happy Hours in Sihnoukville. Tonight was his first night!

Kris, Amanda and myself headed off to the Shamrock. As we walked (no one was expecting to be able to ride a bike home later!) I asked Kris if I could start my Open Water after his day off. He couldn't see a problem as he would be my instructor and had nothing booked so far. He would sort it out for me the next day and also help me arrange my flight to Bangkok. Happy I entered the bar.

The Shamrock is like stepping back into time. Old rugby shirts hang on the wall. Cricket bats hang in glass fronted cases. The dart board is hidden on the side wall behind two door with coloured frosted glass upper panels that look like they came from an Irish country pantry. The bar is long and narrow, as are all the shops around that area. Playing a game of darts involved opening the doors and then standing with your back against the opposite wall to throw darts over the table we were sitting at , hopefully avoiding people entering or leaving the bar.

Our Pub Wander Organiser challenged Kris to a game, to pass the time while we awaited anyone else who was coming. Kris has never played darts, as we were all to discover after the first one ricocheted off the wall onto our table, followed by the next one doing the exact same thing. He did get the third into the wall but about a foot away from the board!

Drinks were picked up. Feet drawn nearer and a keen eye was kept on where the darts were heading as Kris perfected his game. One more person arrived but that was all. Slightly disheartened Our Host handed out the wrist bands and the first round of shots appeared on the table. It was only the first one everyone reassured him. Once word got around things would pick up. Determined to have a good night regardless, everyone raised their glasses and knocked back their shot! I left them as they headed towards the second bar of the evening.

I hadn't eaten an evening meal but wasn't really hungry either. The heat takes away a lot of your appetite and you find you eat because you should, not because you are hungry. I picked up some more vegetable biscuits as I passed the supermarket, just in case and went to the cyber cafe to catch up with the mail. Hot mail was working fine but Facebook kept freezing. I abandoned my mission and headed home only to walk past Kris, Amanda, Matt and a few others outside Rainbow Divers! I stopped for a drink – well it was only 9pm and one has to be supportive of local schemes as well as sociable!

By 9.30 though I was ready to head home. Kris was most concerned about me walking back alone and wanted to come with me. Matt offered to walk me home too. It was still early I pointed out, I would be fine and they could virtually see the hotel from here. Eventually I was allowed home – alone - but with my phone in my hand in case of emergencies. Who is the grown up here?!

I sat out on the balcony revising my notes and eating my biscuits. I am so so happy I came out here. Seeing Kris's life, meeting his friends, putting names to the faces I see on Facebook. Life couldn't get much better than it was just then.

Boats and Music - Part 12

Tuesday 9th April

Some time during the night the power went off. I can't remember hearing a storm but I do remember waking up aware that the fan had stopped blowing cooling air over me. It was dark and I was too tired to investigate further so I threw the thin sheet off me and went back to sleep. The fan was on again when I woke so it couldn't have been anything too major.

I walked down to the dive shop early only to find it was still closed. Not in any rush to go anywhere I wandered back onto the beach road and sat outside the museum to pass the time away.

A sweet man in one of those hand pumped three wheeled chairs came over to me to sell me postcards. He was polite and pleasant and we spent a good 20 minutes going through his various selections of postcard packs. I eventually settled on one that I liked and bought it. He then tried to sell me more but I explained I only had enough money for one and looking a bit down hearted he pumped his chair back onto the road and headed off into the town.


The mini bus was just arriving as I returned to the dive shop allowing me to get straight on. We had a few pick ups to do from hotels off the beaten track which allowed me to see a bit more of the town, before we headed off to the harbour.

The ride past the lobster men and cable cars was as enjoyable as the previous days trip, the sun was hot in the sky even at that time in the morning and I was happy to sit in the shade with the others. Kris went over the plan of the day with his two students.


The snorkelling was brilliant with visibility even better than the last time I'd gone. The huge thunderstorms we had been having since I had arrived in Asia had abated, allowing the seas to settle and clear. I borrowed a T-shirt from Kris to make sure I didn't burn this time and kept an eye on the backs of my legs throughout the day.

Lunch of fruit and bread was followed by another swim at Moray Bay. There is a sweet man with a blue glass bottomed round boat who calls by all the boats to collect anyone who would like to see the fish without getting wet – well not that wet anyway! Between divers jumping in, people jumping off boats and the general splashing that goes on around that much water no-one stays completely dry, but at least you didn't have to swim to see the fish and corals with him.

There were no special guests this time so the return journey to the harbour was spent lounging around on the upper decks with Amanda, Kris and Matt trying to even out my tan!! So far my back was a lovely shade of red, my front a pale brown with my forehead pink and peeling from the constant overhead sun! Between that and the strap lines I felt like 'Kerriann of many colours'.

Back at the apartment I began to realise how quickly the days were passing. I wanted to arrange a flight back to Bangkok soon as the news was reporting unrest within the country again. I also started to think that leaving my Open Water until Simon came back on the Monday was pushing the time limits a bit, especially as I had time now to sort all these things out. I made a mental note to talk to Kris that evening and with his help make some definite plans.

Having eaten bread and fruit for two days on the dive boat I decided to have a walk into town to see if I could find some cheese and a few tomatoes to liven up my boat diet.


The main supermarket in town is disguised as a boat shop! Those of you who saw the TOP GEAR program where they travelled from the bottom to the top of Vietnam on Motorbikes in a week, will remember the big boat they bought Richard Hammond to put on the back of his bike – this is the shop where they bought it from!! Boats of every size fill the front section of the shop, while lanes of supermarket shelves lie behind the glass doors to the rear.

The air conditioning inside the supermarket brought chills to my skin, the contrast to the outside air being extreme. I found my cheese, some vegetable crackers, more peanut crackle, some tomatoes plus a large bottle of Fanta. A quick gaze at other available products that filled the shelves, just for future reference and I was back out into the heat of the day. Now in a shopping mood or as near to one as I ever get, I walked home the long way, popping in and out of shops as I went. There is no hard sell at all in Nha Trang, the shopkeeper follows you discreetly just in case you have a query but when you have finished your browse, you simply thank them, they smile, you nod, they nod, you leave, they sit back down.

I stood, fascinated by a young man sitting just out of the sun inside his open fronted Art shop. With paint brush in one hand, a photo of woman in the other, he deftly put paint to canvas creating his incredibly accurate and realistic copy. There were probably pieces of his own work in the shop but the main stay were copies of famous and easily recognisable paintings.

Kris finished at 5pm that day allowing me to meet up with him at his place at 6pm. The TV was on when I arrives and we wasted a pleasant hour with Joe watching Trawler men battle their way through the oceans before meeting up with Matt and Amanda in town at 8pm. Following the usual deliberation we chose the Indian Restaurant for tonight's evening meal, opting to sit downstairs as we didn't know there was a quieter upstairs, until a load of people walked down the hidden staircase at the back of the room and out through the packed downstairs area!! Full from our meal and with my left overs packed up safe for the boat trip the next day, we returning to Guava's for the live music that is performed each Thursday.

Two guitarists and a Bongo player stood beside the bar. The place was heaving at the seams yet everybody was happily welcoming all new arrivals, people shifted left and right a little to make room on the long settees that ran around the walls. Drinks were passed to those who couldn't move, kisses were blown to those we could not reach and waving arms flowed up and down the room as people noticed each other. The atmosphere in the bar was wonderful. I never did get the names of the guys singing, I simply clapped and sang, listened and watched as the evening grew later and later. Beers appeared in front of me, cameras flashed, more people arrived. Son arrived with the news that the boat was full the next day and would I be upset if I couldn't go. As I was a free loader I said it was fine, I had already had two free days out on the boat and there would be other days. Relieved he bought me another beer and we all moved up to allow him to sit with us.

The live music finished to thunderous applause about 11.00pm to be replaced by the resident DJ. We sat for another quarter of an hour before it was decided, I'm not sure by whom, that we were all off to the Red Apple around the corner. Grabbing the beer I was still only half way through I followed everyone outside and around the corner into the night.

Tables and chairs were scattered along the pavement out side the Red Apple, loud trance music flowed from the open door, and this place too was packed. We pulled some more chairs together and joined the crowd outside in the warm night air. I was introduced to other dive instructors from rival shops, the story of how we found Murphy in Cambodia was told, trade was discussed, dives were compared, and the evening passed in a glow of warmth and discussion. A heated discussion started between Kris and a guy, points were pushed back and forth, they decided to disagree and to the words of 'What an A*** H***!' Kris decided it was time to call it a night .

It was now 1.30am and they were due on the dive boat at 6am. Kris bought us both a final beer as we jumped onto the bikes of those who had them and headed home. Matt said we might have a problem getting into our place as it was so late. Kris was three up on the bike with us and said to try but if it was locked we could sleep at his place. The three of us arrived at the gate to find it firmly closed and padlocked. I was happy to walk to Kris's but Matt sounded his horn and miraculously a light came on as a very sleepy landlord came to the gate. I apologised profusely for our late arrival but he simply looked at Matt as if he was used to his late appearance and closed the gate quietly behind us. Kris called good night as the gate closed and headed back to his house, Matt said good night as I headed for the staircase, I responded likewise hugging my beer as I climbed an awful lot of steps to the top floor.

It had been a brilliant evening and I had thoroughly enjoyed myself. Drinking on the street in the heat of the night is something quite special. Not ready to call it a night I sat out on my balcony slowly savouring the last of my beer and giggling to myself as I burped loudly from the gassy bottle!!

Quiet Days - Part 11

Wednesday 8th April

Chill Out Day – which began with more hot showers to reduce the sting from the sunburn. I have been to many countries including India and Morocco but I have never burnt the way I had done in the sun of Vietnam. I even had a base tan from our travels so far, yet still I had burnt. Covered with sun cream I wandered out towards the beach, the day was overcast for which I was grateful. As I walked a Viet man walked with me. We chatted about where I was from, where he was from, families, a bit of history of Nha Trang. We sat on the beach front watching the waves wash the shore in silence for a while.


Eventually I got up saying I was going to Dive Shop, he simply said he was hungry and could I spare a dollar (76p) I gave him 20,000 Bart, about £1.50, he was happy, I was happy to have met him and to have enjoyed each others company and so we shook arms and said our goodbyes.

The day wandered by in a pleasant lazy way, a shower, a bit of reading, a snooze, more wanders and an Italian Chocolate Ice-cream that melted much too quickly in the afternoon heat for me to keep up. The mid-day and afternoon heat was quite intense, the over cast sky was not helping to cool the suns radiation nor reduce the humidity either.

Kris and I hit the cyber cafe when we met up, I had done what I needed within an hour but Kris had headphones on and was chatting to Steph so I left them to it and wandered home for yet another shower. Dinner that evening was take away, fetched by Kris on the bike, over a DVD with Matt, Amanda and Joe; Mishka was out roller skating!! Food and films finished, Matt walked me home about midnight and another day had passed in Vietnam!

Boat Trips and Living -Nha Trang, Vietnam - Part 10

Tuesday 7th April

Today is Boat Day, Kris has two fun diver customers who are staying at one of the Plush Resorts where Simon has a small office. As these are upmarket divers he was smartly turned out in a green uniform and was personally collecting them from their hotel with their very own air conditioned taxi (they also paid a lot more than the rest of us on the boat) I was collected along with the other clients at the Dive shop and driven to the harbour in the Dive minibus.

All the staff, drivers, instructors and boat crew, were now referring to me as 'Kris's Mom', which I found quite endearing and didn't correct with my given name. As the boat left the harbour we had the usual orienteering of facilities and the safety plan, given that day by Joe. Only our Posh guests were allowed on the upper deck but there was loads of room out front and by being related to 'staff' I also got to sit out the back with Kris and the others.



The trip out to sea was wonderful. Warm breeze, small swells just to make it interesting and a whole new set of sights to marvel at. Just off the mainland, opposite the harbour, is a huge island that has been developed into a water theme park. Complete with its own 'HOLLYWOOD' style sign, it is linked to the mainland by a long cable car system.


Our boat was dwarfed by the huge pylons climbing out of the sea, the cars hanging to the cables overhead seemed tiny as we motored below them. Next came the flotilla of lobster farms.



Tiny shacks of corrugated tin and wood balanced on floating rafts, surrounded by large square pots, laced together with rope, forming small floating islands. Hundreds of these mini islands bobbed gently up and down as the boats and tides formed waves to rock them to and fro. TV ariels attached to tin roofs confirmed their occupancy, washing hung on impromptu lines strung here and there in the morning sun. On some people were up and about, waving to us as we passed. Other 'islands' lay deserted, wind gently blowing their flags and washing.




We passed a few more land islands before Octopush Rock came into view. A tiny outcrop of rock complete with yet another tiny shack of tin and wood perched precariously to the side of the cliffs. In the distance I could see other similar structures on other rocks and isles. Matt explained to me they were where the people lived during the bird nest collecting season.



He also pointed out that there were no large birds around. In fact once he mentioned it I realised I had seen no large birds since my arrival. He wasn't sure of the reason but I later found out that any largish birds seen, were caught and put in cages for for sale and entertainment or eating. Over the years the wild bird population had ceased to exist. There were loads of tiny birds flying around but anything over the size of a sparrow caused a stir in the street as people looked and pointed in surprise.




We moored alongside one other dive boats and I kept myself out of the way as people kitted up and jumped overboard with their relevant guides and instructor. Kris had already sorted out a mask, fins and snorkel for me so once everyone was safely in the water I donned my kit and slid gracefully into the sea.



The visibility was well over 15m allowing me to see the sea bed clearly. Beautiful coral reefs climbed upwards to the sun, tiny fish browsing their sides, large parrot fish picked chunks from their ends and schools of young barracuda swam around me. Below I could see the divers, multitudes of bubbles rose in clouds to the surface. I swam through them enjoying the sensation of being tickled as they embraced me. I could recognise Matt and Amanda but could see no sign of Kris. He had been the first to enter the water with his charges and was possibly long gone from the boat area by now. I swam out toward a protruding rock, the water swirled as the waves raced over and around it. Below the surface huge black sea urchins with neon blue dots dominated the scene.




Flat saucer like coral formed multi layers, like that of fungus on a tree, down the side of the rock. Small fish of every colour darted here and there in the current. I dove down a few times for a closer look, swimming along the bottom until I needed to return to the surface for air. The difference in water temperature from surface to depth was quite extreme and I realised how soft and fragile I had become in my old age!


I returned to the boat just as Kris was returning with his guests. A whole hour had passed in what seemed like a few minutes. Lunch was served up front, chicken curry with rice and loads of fresh fruit and baguettes. I took some bread, a bowl of fruit and wandered off to sit at the back of the boat. Kris and the others were not permitted to eat until after the second dive, this allowed the customers to eat their fill, leaving the crew to finish all the left overs. I shared out my fruit as to eat when they could not seemed unfair. It was still only 10.30 so hunger wasn't an issue but it was nice to cleanse the palette after breathing through a snorkel for so long.



We sat in the sun warming up after so long in the water. Kit had been rinsed and stored, people had been thrown overboard, as they are and soon it was time to motor around the bay to Moray Beach. This time I approached Kris as he was about to enter the water. Would he and his guests mind if I followed them on the surface while they dived. They all said this would be fine but Kris added that I should be careful of motor boats moving around as I would be going out of the usual snorkelling area. I promised to be careful and watched them jump in.

Kris was just doing the final check when the boat next door started his engine giving both Kris and his guests the fright of their lives. I quickly donned my kit and jumped in after them as they sank below the surface.



This dive was much more interesting as I dove down to the sea bed when Kris signalled there was something special to see. A Lion fish guarded his patch of sand, then a moray eel shot away as we passed. I was getting the occasional sting from the tiny jellyfish that floated just beneath the surface but nothing to bother about and the colours that oscillated down their sides once they made their presence known, more than made up for their defence mechanisms. We travelled further out to sea, the sandy bed giving way to coral and rock. I played once again in the bubbles coming up to the surface, simply enjoying the fact that I was here, far out to sea, enjoying life.



Suddenly I was being stung left, right and centre. Thousands of tiny jellyfish filled the water. This was now becoming unpleasant so I decided to return to the shore. Not wishing Kris to worry about my sudden absence I dove down to what I discovered later was 10 meters and swam along side him signalling that I was going inshore. He signalled 'OK' and I swam off at an angle to miss the cloud of stings above me.

I snorkelled around in the shallows for a while until I noticed the divers returning to the boat. The water was so warm in the shallows I hadn't noticed the time go by again. Once on board the engines were started and we motored back towards the mainland and the harbour. While Matt, Joe and Amanda helped Son unload the experiment, I said my goodbyes and got back onto our mini bus waiting to pick us up for the return journey to the dive shop. Kris left with his 'special guests', saying we would meet up when-ever that evening.

It was still only 1.30pm but back at the apartment I realised how much I had caught the sun on my back while I had been floating around. A hot hot shower followed, to take away the sting and an easy afternoon was spent on the balcony reading in the shade.

As the sun lost its intensity I ventured out into the streets of Nha Trang for a stroll. I walked for about a mile along the coast road towards the harbour before crossing into the palm trees to walk back along the beach. People were now out and about, also enjoying the cooling air. Men marched determinedly with weight in their hands doing their evening workouts as they marched. Younger men played volleyball over nets strung between palm trees and ladies sat talking, as children ran along the beach.


The last of the sun shone across the sea giving it its famous path of gold. The sands were washed clean of footprints as I strolled along, more waves washed them away behind me as I went. This is the way life should be lived, I though to myself, I am just so suited to this style of living!!

Kris had mentioned during our travels, that he wanted to get his British pension sorted out. When I had asked if he was planning on coming home, he had answered 'Hell NO!' but a UK pension paid directly into a bank account, he explained, could easily be accessed from where ever he was in the world and one could live very well on a British Pension in a place like Asia!!

When had my son become so sensible I had asked myself! With this thought roaming around in my head I wandered the beach – I had only another 18 years until I could collect my pension. My dream of living for a year on an Indian Beach came flooding into reality as I planned the how's and where's!

I wasn't ready to return to Kris's or my place so I pulled out my note book, sat down on the warm sand and wrote Vicky a long letter about living out in the sun on our pensions when we were ready to retire!!

The sun had well and truly set by the time I got back to the dive centre, Kris wasn't there as he was on duty at the Posh Resort until 8pm. I chatted to Chi then walked the 100meters to the cyber cafe and sent my long letter to Vicky for her thoughts.

Kris text me at 8pm and we set off to Guava's for the evening. Darren and Chin, the owners greeted me enthusiastically as we entered. The Viet are very tactile and greetings always consist of at least an embracing arm clasp and are usually followed by a full embrace and kisses to cheeks for both men and women. I found the greetings both enjoyable and reassuring and looked forward to meeting more and more people.


John Paul joined us for our evening meal - originally from Harrogate, he has been abroad working 'somewhere' longer that he has been in the UK. We retired to Cyclo's for our evening meal via the ATM as Kris was now all spent out and it was my turn to pay for dinner! The meal was wonderful yet again, JP ordering some sort of Hot Pot over flames, Kris a Pizza with Cheesy garlic bread and me, tofu and sweetcorn in garlic with rice.

Kris had taken a booking that afternoon for two Open Water Courses the next day. This would involve a morning in the class room and the afternoon in the pool doing the confined dives. I would be able to go out on the dive boat the day after but for the next day I was to do what ever I wanted. With this thought in mind we eventually said good night to JP – with more hugs and kisses – and had an early-ish night! Well it wasn't quite midnight yet !!!

Rain in Nha Trang - Part 9

Monday 6th April

I awoke early at 5.30am, rolled over and slept till 8am, decadence in a country that rises before 6am. Kris, I knew, would be asleep so I strolled down to the beach to see what the Pink Tower that I could see from my balcony actually was. I did a spot of exploring, bought myself some Pringles and Peanut crunch and returned to my balcony as the sky began to change from clear blue to darkness.




Five minutes after I arrived back, the sky's opened and rain emptied onto the surrounding roofs and streets. There is something enchanting about sitting on a balcony dressed in the lightest of sarongs as water pours vertically from the sky above. When I pushed my hand out from the protection of the roof it felt like placing it in a small waterfall. The droplets were huge and heavy cooling the mid morning air temperature to a pleasant 25'c. With nowhere to go and all day to get there, I gathered my book and breakfast and settled myself onto the balcony.




The rain passed as quickly as it arrived allowing the streets to steam in the now revealed midday sun. I strolled around to Kris's to find him coming out of the shower having just awoken. Mishka was on the dive boat that morning leaving Amanda, Joe and Kris to make the hard decision about where to have breakfast/lunch! I was beginning to appreciate the suffering my poor son had been going through since landing this job six months ago. Decision made, we walked (!) to the cafe as Kris still didn't have his bike. A leisurely lunch of steamed veg and rice was had, before Kris had to leave for work in the shop at 2pm.



Amanda introduced me to the joys of the cyber cafe, at 25p per hour, time could be wasted easily in Facebook and other such sites. I updated my 'status' and sent a few e-mails then moved to the beach for an hour or two. This was followed, as the sun cooled near to the horizon, by an exploration of the opposite end of the beach, a brief snooze, a shower and it was time to meet Kris, who finished work at 8pm.




I had asked, earlier in the day, if I could go out on the dive boat the next time Kris was working on it. Even though I wasn't due to start my scuba diving for another week I wanted to do some snorkelling and also wanted to see what Kris did for a living! He had taken a booking for a fun dive just before I had arrived and my name was added to the boat list for the morning.

Kris had promised to chat to Steph on line in the cyber cafe before we ate. I signed on too and ended up chatting to Bam back in Wales for half an hour. Guavas for tea with Matt and Joe plus a few games of pool and by 11pm I was flagging again. Kris got Joe to drive me home as he didn't want me walking alone in the evening. He picked up the bill for the food yet again and I was off. So far I had spent no money in Nha Trang except for my Pringles and Peanut crunch, Kris had even covered my room for the first week – I knew there was a good reason I had had children!

First Day in Nha Trang! Vietnam - Part 8

Sunday 5th April – Nha Trang

I awoke to the sound of strange Vietnamese music playing over the bus's sound system and opened my curtains, yes you even have curtains! We were entering the outskirts of Nha Trang. Single story houses gave way to high rise, shops and bars lined the streets, people emerged onto the roads beginning their day as we pulled up outside a large hotel.

Kris looked around in confusion saying the bus stop was still another half a mile away. He wasn't objecting however as his house was next door to the big hotel we had stopped outside!




Within 2 minutes he was in the shower and I was sitting on his balcony taking the morning air. The plan for the day was incredibly vague as Kris was now home and getting him to make a decision was almost impossible.


Having had a quick look around the house, that he shares with three other dive instructors, of whom he is the oldest at 21, I decided that just maybe, I'd be better off in a nearby hotel. My days of staying in a student house are passed I'm afraid.



Matt, one of the Dive Masters doing his internship at Octopus Divers with Kris, had a room in the Blue House Hotel that lay on the other side of the large hotel on the main road. Kris grabbed my bag and we walked the 20m to the main road and 20m back down the far side of the hotel.

Blue House was idyllic. All painted blue, as its name suggests, it was three stories high with a large plant filled open courtyard on the ground floor, a large terrace with tables and chairs on the second floor and three rooms with a long common balcony on the top.




I chose the top as the views and peace were wonderful up there. No noise could be heard from the road and the sun shone onto the balcony from morning to lunch. Kris disappeared down stairs with my passport to sign me in as I unpacked my bag entirely for the first time.




Nha Trang, although quite large and sprawling, has a heart of two rectangles that run parallel to the long beach front. There are bars and restaurants on other surrounding blocks but this block of two was 'THE' place to be and be seen. Kris lives one block over from the main town with his Dive Shop, Octopus Diving, situated fractionally off the main beach road. As we wandered down into town Kris pointed out various closed doors (it was still only 6.30am) explaining what or who lived behind them.

The Dive Shop was still closed, surprisingly at that hour ,but the book shop/cafe across the road was open. One wall of 'Shorty's' was covered by a huge bookcase filled to overflowing with second hand books. A large sign advertised Book Trades, bring a book and you could trade it against your new book sale. The price of a book being anything from 15 Bart (£1.00) to 150 Bart (£10). Large comfy wicker chairs were dotted around glass topped coffee tables giving the whole place a feel of informality and rest. I chose a book even though I had one back in my room and settled with Kris and our drinks to await the raising of the shutters across the road.


Slightly later than 7.30, Simon, Kris's boss opened up the Dive Shop. Kris paid for our drinks and breakfast as people carried signs outside onto the side walk, setting up the shop for the day. I was introduced to Simon and Chi, a tiny little Viet woman who bossed everyone around in the nicest way. Kris she decided needed a hair cut and a shave before he came back to work and he needed to take Joe for a haircut too as Joe wasn't listening to her! Simon was off to Bangkok the next morning for the week and she wanted everything running ship shape.

An hour had passed in conversation when I realised I was incredibly tired. Even though we had slept the whole way to Nha Trang I was still tired. Kris made our excuses allowing me to retire to my room while he sorted out Joe and slept himself. We arranged to meet for lunch, Kris coming round to my place when he awoke.

Sleep was blissful, although when I awoke I still had the slight sensation of movement, as if stepping off a boat after a few days at sea. Kris arrived dead on 12 noon and we went in search of Joe for lunch. Kris shares his house with Joe, aged 20 from England, who is the spit of a friend of Kris's back home called Bob. Considering he had just had a hair cut, he had a huge mop of unruly hair upon his head and a wicked grin. Also in the house but working at the moment was Amanda, aged 19 from Canada and Mishka aged 20 from Sweden. Matt, being a lowly Dive Master in training, as opposed to a qualified Instructor had been relegated to the hotel when Joe had arrived the month before. Simon provided the house as part of his instructor's wages, they had a girl who came in to clean and sort out everyone's washing twice a week but that too came out of the wage. Kris had started, as did everyone, in the smallest room downstairs next to the lounge.(Joe's present room) As people left he had 'upgraded' to bigger and better rooms. He had progressed to reached the main bedroom, a large room with patio windows leading onto the only balcony of the house. He was also now senior Dive Instructor! At the age of 21 and 3 weeks this seamed surreal to not only me but him as well.




Kris's bike was still with the guy who owned it, why buy when you can rent so cheaply and someone else is responsible for is repairs, so we walked, while Joe rode, off to the cafe next door to the Dive Shop. Sweet and sour steamed veg with rice, iced cold bottle water and complimentary bananas for dessert. Joe disappeared off to work and five minutes later Matt arrived having finished for the day. Guava's was the next stop for a game of pool and a drink.



Every bar I had been into in our trip had contained a large old fashioned pool table. No slots for money just good old fashioned net bags on the pockets and I swear an extra two foot in length and breadth. Large fans were usually positioned overhead but in Guavas a huge four foot wide fan stood to one side oscillating back and forth. This led to some unusual pool playing as extra curve could be gained if you timed the fan right! A few games followed, introductions to people coming and going were made, not that I could remember half of them straight way. By the time the first week was up I had everyone's name sorted for although I was in a city, the community around these two blocks is incredibly close and sociable.

After an exhausting (?) few hours it was decided we needed a shower and rest! Matt gave me a lift back to the hotel on his bike, Kris made a phone call to see when he could get his bike back and I said I'd call around to the house about 5pm. Kris had arranged to see Simon at 6pm in the Dive Shop to sort out his shifts and my diving.



At 5pm I dutifully arrived at the house, watched a bit of Discovery TV, then wandered down to the Dive Shop. Simon was busy so we went off for a game of pool and a drink. Are you beginning to see a pattern forming here! I stayed at Guavas while Kris popped back to see Simon at the allotted time. As Simon was away for the next week it was decided I'd do my Open Water training when he returned. Joe and Matt had said they would join us for supper at 8pm so a few more games of pool were had while we passed the time until food. Once the boys had arrived we all just had to have another drink while they decided where we would eat that night. 'Cyclo's' was the final choice and we piled onto the bikes for the ride around the corner.



From the outside Cyclo's looks like a typical Chinese restaurant. The menu however, as I was to discover, as in most of the restaurants, was a book! From starters and snacks, you progressed to the soup page, this led to a whole page on noodles, then rice dishes before beginning with a page dedicated to each of the various forms of flesh, chicken, pork, beef, lamb, shellfish, fish, squid! This was then followed by pizzas, pastas, Thai Specialities, the Restaurant's Specialities and side orders. Finally came desserts, ice-creams and about five pages of drinks from smoothies and juice to beer and cocktails!

Joe chose a coconut curry served in a real coconut that was on fire – I presume on purpose – when it arrived, the rest of us had pizzas and cheesey garlic bread. Complimentary fruit salad followed our meal all chopped and artistically arranged on a platter. The boys being the health concious guys they are lit up cigarettes while I picked quietly away at the fresh pineapple, paw-paw (?), melon, orange banana and apple.

The bill was eventually paid a few hours later as no-one was in a hurry to leave or to have us go for that matter and we returned to Kris's to watch a film. I made my excuses at mid night and went home leaving them to film number 2, 3 and 4!

An hour later we had yet another huge thunderstorm. So far it had rained everyday of my trip but as the heat between the storms was so intense I really didn't mind. I sat out on the balcony for a while watching the lightening then went back to bed. My first day in Nha Trang had been exhausting!