The Adventures of Kerriann: Blog 7 Udaipur

If Pushkar held a certain magic and balance then Upaidur can only be described as a centre of openness and friendship.

I arrived on the night bus after one of the most bone shaking experienced to date. My bunk had been right at the back of the bus. Every bump, and there had been more than their fair share on this trip, had sent me flying into the air. The mattress that I had tried to sleep on had been thick and spongy which had also added to the lift off effect on some of the deeper holes. It had also been incredibly cold during the trip. Extra layers had been pulled from the bag until, like my departure from Wales, I was wearing every bit of clothing I possessed.

Saying that I did sleep, admittedly for only a few hours but my 'training' as a Taxi driver means that 2 hours sleep is suffice to continue for another 24 hours!

There were five other westerners travelling on the night bus who were besieged by rickshaw drivers the moment we stepped onto the road. The two Russian girls disappeared in seconds, the two English guys plus the German boy negotiated hard and asked if I wished to share a ride to town. At this point I had no idea where I was, let alone where I was heading. It was still dark and sitting in one part of a dark town was pretty much like sitting in any other part of a dark town. I decided to stay where I was until the sun rose in 30 minutes or so. They waved and departed, a little concerned they were just abandoning me there, but as I reminded them, I have chosen to travel alone, sitting alone is part of this process!

The bus stop became quiet with everyone's departure. I got my bead bag out, settled under the only light and began to chant. Over the distant mountains the sky began to lighten, the dawn racing over the country towards me. It never ceases to amaze me how in some parts of the world day and night merge in seconds rather than the hours of the UK.

A rickshaw pulled up just as I was finishing my round. “Good morning Mataji, can I be of service?” said the man climbing out of the back, “I have a hotel, very new, very small.” He pulled out a card as the driver stood waiting.

“How much?” I enquired, the card looked professional, the rooms well decorated. “300RPS”, “Can you do for 200RPS?” I smiled. He too smiled and nodded.

My bags were loaded into the waiting rickshaw and soon I was racing through the sun lit streets and back lanes of Upaidur.

We crossed a bridge over the lake, the morning sunshine illuminating the still waters, ripples from lakeside ablutions spreading in gentle waves, merging and disappearing as I watched. 100m further we stopped.

The rooms were indeed spacious and clean as he had described.

A small balcony gave me views of the large garden that stretched out the back,

the rooftop restaurant was still a work in progress but the views over the lake were beautiful, the sun diffused by trellis work and the noise from the street bearable.

I checked in for 1 night and was soon asleep under a large quilt for the next 2 hours.

By 9am I was walking over the sun drenched bridge, bead bag in hand, room key and Hotel address card safe in the purse part.

I safely navigated unusual street obstacles,

entering the town through the impressive archway.

The streets here were shaded and narrow.

Buildings were high as everyone builds to get a view of the lake.

Recent instructions from the government have banned new premises from building over 3 stories high

but it has done little to curb the fanatics who build up into the sky for that 'Roof-top Restaurant View'.

Many of the shops were still closed. Those that were open called out good morning as I passed. I Namaste-ed and smiled.

There is such a relaxed feel to Udaipur.

Chai is offered by everyone and if you have the time to say yes then expect to spend an hour in pleasant company, chatting about this and that. English is spoken in most places around India, and in areas that attract tourists the English is excellent

In the three days I have been here I have drunk so much chai and sat for so many hours and met so many beautiful people.

There are many finer hotels across the bridge but here I am living with a family. The two spacious rooms either side of their living quarters are private yet I feel included in their daily lives. Each morning Arti is done around their Tulsi bush, I wake to the sound of a tinkling bell and the aroma of incense.

Around me daily life continues,

morning rituals,

pots stand waiting for the days trade to begin.

One hundred meters away from my room is the bridge over the lake, beside which stands a wonderful Cashmere shop.

Here each morning I sit and drink cashmere tea with Rahul. Green tea infused with cardamom, saffron and honey.

We talk about the hills of Cashmere, the snow and the arts and crafts that have evolved there.

Many beautiful things hang from the walls, if you wish to buy they are happy, if you wish to just talk and look, they are still happy.

Rahul dreams of one day living back in Cashmere, we sit over tea and talk about his dreams.

I am invited in even when the shop is closed, we sit on the roof or by the balcony and watch the world go by. Dreams and conversation, tea and silence go hand in hand.

Behind my borrowed home is Raja and his family. From holding your hands and pressing pressure points he can tell you what ails you.

A masseur and chakra healer as well as a restaurant owner he has the uncanny ability to know what is in your mind as well as the ways to help you unlock the answers. I arrived here with a very painful shoulder, sleeping at night was impossible without pain killers. Each day when I thought it should be getting better it was getting worse.

The treatment has not been cheep, I would pay the same back in the UK for such treatment but the results have been amazing. I can sleep now and brush my hair. His diagnosis was dislocation caused by the tightening of the tendons. Although not fully back in place, I have been manipulated and clicked until 95% of my movement is back. The final bit will come with gentle exercises that I can do myself. I have also had my back clicked, my chakra's aligned and I feel incredible.

Like the family I live with, Raja's family have been so good to me. I ride through town on the back of Ansh's bike to fetch the things I need. We compare photos of home life, their cats and dog, my garden and children. Music has been exchanged via USB sticks and so many happy hours have been spent just sitting and watching the world come to grinding halt as the traffic jams in the tiny cross roads outside the door!

In the evenings, as the sun drops over the lake, I walk along the bathing ghats.

The last rays of the day illuminate the magnificent buildings,

their reflections mirrored in photogenic poetry.

Cows wander as the air cools,

there is a definite calmness along the waterfront.

While the town behind beeps and calls it way into life each evening tranquillity can still be found beside the water.

Darkness comes as quickly as the day break,

colours from the neon lit buildings are reflected in the rippling waters. I sit for an hour absorbing the quiet and by 9pm I am in bed!

The early morning holds a different kind of welcome.

Birds stand silent beside the water.

Sun light plays in the architecture,

illuminating detailed mosaic work.

Musicians settle beneath the arches,

ladies spread their hand made jewellery ready for inspection.

The waterside awakens.

There are also many temples in the town across the bridge.

Each day after chai I walk to the three situated in the centre. At the small Krsna temple this morning I took Arti, just the Brahman and me. The flame, the water, the flowers, the incense. So beautiful, so personal.

At the Jaganath Temple I was called into the ladies ranks, recognised and welcomed.

Here, amongst carvings of such beauty, I played my little cymbals, bought in Pushka,

The gathered people sang the morning bajhans. I received prasad, a blessing and was once more included and embraced within the lives of these beautiful people.

When I first came to India I went to Goa. There is so much 'hard sell' that by the end of the first day like most people I had closed myself off from the voices around me. I walked in my private world, too afraid to look left or right in case someone dragged me into yet another shop.

In Udaipur it is so so different. If you are prepared to stop for a few moments or even an hour, you will get to hear and learn so much about the people here and their ways of life. Friendship means more than business, business is a bonus.

From a tourist point of view there is plenty to see and do.

The Lake side Palace, the museum, tours with horses or camel safaris.

Ornate painting appear in the most unexpected places.

Domes can be found hidden away in corners, carvings hundreds of years old. Their
surrounding may have changed, the town build up around them yet they still hold a beauty that never fails to keep me spell bound for a moment or two.