Monday, 28 November 2011
Blog 6 - Pushkar
Pushkar, site of the Great Camel fair that is held during the full moon in November.
A place where bathing in the sacred lake, formed when Brahman dropped three lotus petals after killing the Demon is said to wash away past Karma.
A place surrounded by dramatic hills that fade into the mist as the evening fades into darkness.
There is a certain magic to Pushkar.
Temples lie around every corner
Yet it is very much a tourist area but in a nice sort of way.
Roof top Cafes serve food that is both good and cheep enough,
a good thali costing about 100RPS for a full assortment of rice, veg and pickles. (They cost 50RPS or less in other towns!)
Street food can be had for 10RPS upwards, and Street cafés offer falafels, rolls, salads for a few Rupees more.
Western diets can also be accommodated, Jacket Potatoes, Pasta, Chowmein, Pizza. It is also a vegetarians dream as no eggs, fish or meat is allowed anywhere in the town.
Shops sell sweets for 10RPS each, milk condensed with sugar make these things like fudge but better. Different flavours contain added seeds, coconut, almonds.
It is also a shoppers heaven with clothes, jewellery, trinkets and more on every corner around the Main Bazzar.
Two anklets for 50RPS, hand cymbals for 60RPS, “You first customer, I give you good price!” is called as you step forward to look.
There is also a more relaxed 'hard sell', the sale pitch starts but is easily distracted by questions about their family and the goods on sale.
I have had many enjoyable chats, sitting and listening but feeling able to walk away safely at the end, thanking them for their time and hoping to see them again later.
Musicians wander the streets posing for a photo when asked,
Girl hide henna pouched in their hands waiting for the opportunity to decorate your hand once they have hold of it!
It reminds me a little of Goa years ago, white faces walk the streets, some looking like normal westerners, others with their hair in braids, beards long and beaded.
Colours are everywhere, there is even a 'Chill-Out' shop but as yet I have heard no Trance or Rave music to chill out from!
Pilgrims are equal in number to the while tourists.
They come to bath in the sacred waters, to offer Puja, to shop and look at the white faces, to pass through just like me.
I walk around the lake each morning attracting a following of children as I go. “One Picture” they ask. I take their photo showing them with my hand firmly on the camera and happy they drift away.
All around is the sound of business,
Looking up revels architecture in stunning styles.
Looking around revels smiling faces.
On the outskirts of the town normal lives go on. Schools chant their lessons, studies are done on roof tops away from the noise,
washing is hung out, food is cooked, children play.
There is a rich greenery in this oasis, trees fill the town, the patios and terraces are laden with potted plants .
Large monkeys sit quietly on the roof tops,
or walk lazily around the Ghats, they do not bother you as you walk with them.
Their fur is smooth and healthy unlike the baboons of Vrindhavan.
Cows wander the streets eating all they can find.
The pathways are swept by hand each day, small fires burning away the debris.
I have walked each day without shoes and had no problems at all.
If it were not for the plastic bottles that accumulate and fill each corner, the
plastic packets and sleeves that once held shampoo, chewing gum and other western 'goodies' the place would be fine.
The plastic doesn't burn or rot, it also cant be eaten although some cows do and then get sick.
Without their and our desire for Western consumer goods the streets would be cleared each day. The cows would leave their blessings, the fires would destroy the rest, keeping the flys away as they did.
Pushkar is not as bad as some places. Sweets that you buy in the shops are wrapped in newspaper, street food is served on paper plates, chai is served in clay cups, shopping is put into a cloth bag.
I have walked the streets of Pushkar for 4 days now, in daylight and in darkness.
A lone female, yet I have felt welcome and un-threatened. It helps that I am now 50 years old. A Mataji as they say.
I do not wander into dark side alleys or off the beaten path, but I would not do that in the UK either. Everyone I have met, the scammers included, have smiled at me and helped me in their own little ways.
Pushkar is indeed a wonderful place.
It has a balance of Spirituality
consumerism,
views,
architecture,
scenic hide a ways,
and dramatic hills.
Pappu at the Atithi has been the most amazing host, he has arranged my onward ticket to Udaipur, answered my questions, introduced me to other guests as they arrive, left the inter-net on late into the night as I down load more and more pictures. His family have greeted me each day with smiles and happiness.
The hotel has also been the perfect place to rest each day,
away from the colour, away from the busy streets. A certain tranquillity awaits me each time I return to the roof top.
I look out over the roofs and domes of the town and drink my chai.
This place has a nice balanced feeling to it.
I like Pushkar but it is time to move on.......
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Hi Kerri,
ReplyDeleteJust to let you know my mum (Kay) sent me the link to your blog as my boyfriend and I are heading to India in March next year for a few months! It's very interesting reading about what you've been doing, and looking at all the pictures! Reading it has got us very excited about starting our adventure!
Take care, looking forward to reading you next update!
Nikki xx
Thank you Nikki, Do you mean Cousin Kay? Audreys daughter? It must be a family thing all this travel, I shall be uploading new photos soon, do keep in touch, I am also on Facebook xxx
ReplyDeleteI'm also coming back over here Easter 2013 so we may be here the same time lol xxxx
Yes, cousin Kay!
ReplyDeleteYeah it must be in the family, I am in South Korea at the moment, I have been here since March!
I will be sure to find you on facebook!
xx