Day 2 Delhi, India

I awoke today with a mission! To WALK to the Red Fort through the streets of Delhi. My children, as they read this will suck in their breath as they know that their mothers sense of direction is not the best and her map reading skills are even less, but undaunted by this fact and assured that I could always call a tut-tut I headed out.


Main Bazaar was soon negotiated, mainly because I had walked its length and breath the day before. At the end stood the imposing New Delhi Train Station. The 'Road' across the tracks beside New Delhi Station was however missing so I continued walking north??


Bicycle Wallahs asked if I wanted a lift, as did the taxis as they pulled up beside me. All were politely refused, today I would negotiate the traffic, look at the buildings and walk!


The roads were surprisingly quiet. I had expected the pandemonium that I had seen in other big cities like Saigon but was rewarded by smiling children and grinning fathers as they slowly passed by. I soon fell into Indian walking mode, not too slow to cause a hold up but slow enough to conserve energy and to look around. A useful thing as cattle walk very quietly!!


I walked and I looked. I was offered more lifts and declined. Somewhere along this road, if only I kept going, was a path that would cross the train tracks and take me towards Old Delhi and the Fort.


2k later I came to a cross roads. This was more like the organised chaos I had been expecting. Lorries, cars, people and wheels all edged closer to each other, horns hooted, helpers waved arms holding back a lorry to allow a tut-tut pass by then waving the lorry on amid a lot of shouting and beeping!


I spotted a sign and took a photo. I then took refuge in a closed doorway and checked my map but no Sadar Bazar was shown.


The Bazaar Bridge defiantly crossed the rail tracks and meandered first to the right and then to the left. I took out my note pad, I made notes, I crossed the tracks!

People surged forward, myself among them, horns sounded, bicycle bells rang as steadily I moved on through the bazaar.


At the far end of the Bazaar Flyover Bridge stood a temple. I stopped to pay my obeisances and to drop 50RPS into the pot for my safe keeping. I looked at the choice of 3 roads ahead and turning right into a main thoroughfare. (I later discovered that if I had gone straight I would have cut off the next 2k!!)


Oxen stood silent beside parked carts along the road, 20 to 30, all awaiting loads of differing sizes. The traffic increased as the road narrowed and then up ahead I spotted the most wonderful traffic jam. A lorry lay waiting in the middle of the road hoping to pull into the left for a delivery. Its middle lane path that it had followed so far was now blocked by a central reservation and patience was called for. Indian traffic does not understand patience when it can't see the reason for it and vehicles edges around the truck oblivious to its requirements! Eventually a helpful passer by stopped the traffic, allowing the truck to move there-after freeing the entire road.


I emerged from the congestion onto a wide road where traffic positively raced by and consulted the map.


I spotted another sign but despite my best intentions I could not locate the street name on the map, I still had no idea where I was but I figured that forwards was a good enough direction in times of doubt.



I passed another shrine, this time on the opposite side of the hectic road, obeisances would have to wait and I continued on.




Buildings still fascinated me as I passed. Layer upon layer, floor upon floor.



Tangled webs of wiring trailed overhead, the noise increased, the population grew and I ducked into a street café to rest. Pea rice with dahi, a new bottle of water, 70RPS lighter and with the reassuring news that this was indeed the road to the Fort I stepped once more into the maddening crowd.


As I followed the gentle swing of the road the fort came into sight, dominating the end of the street. I crossed the last main carriageway and the noise and traffic melted away as I reached the pedestrian only area that surrounds the huge red sandstone building.




Completed in 1648 after 9 years of work, this imposing structure is the largest building in Delhi.





The stones are huge, as are the towers that mark the corners.





The moat is now empty, trees line the wide surrounding walkway,





I walked and gazed in wonderment, over 350 years ago this construction had occupied
the north-east corner of what was then called Shahjaanabad.





Build by the Moghuls it covered an area of almost 2km.





I walked along its eastern wall taking photos





and then found someone to take a photo of me!



Peace was lost once off the pedestrian way. I consulted my map, at least I knew where I was, now I just had to get back! From the roof top restaurant back at the hotel I had spotted some distant minarets. These could now been seen above the roof tops to my right, so I turned right and was rewarded 500m later with another Bazaar that led directly to its steps!!



Up close the Jama Masjid was as impressive as I had been told. Prayers had just commenced so I wasn't allowed any further than the top steps.



I looked back across the city, the bazaar and the Red Fort in the distance.



With a final look at the gatehouse I began down the steps, edging my way to the side to allow people to climb the main pathway up.


Out of the corner of my eye I spotted movement. Small furry ferret like animals shot away into the piles of stacked paving slabs. I sat down and waited, camera in my hands. I was rewarded a few minutes later by a tiny head as it poked its way between two slabs. I clicked the camera but discovered I had only caught its tail as it shot into another gap and disappeared from view.


Back at the gate entrance I had a choice to make, left or right. From this point my directions were vague, a net work of streets all interconnected, all looking the same to the untrained eye and all going in different directions lay before me. I chose right and walked on.




Soon I was lost once more within the streets of Delhi.





I wandered on, across and along.





School finished and school 'buses' began to pass.





Smiling children and sweating Bicycle Wallahs






School uniform still perfect in the rising heat.






A business man climbed into his BMW, it's shining newness in stark contrast to the surroundings.





Another street and another school 'bus', this time full of grey uniformed children. I watched as one boy jumped off to ask for 'One pen?' and then raced after his lift once I refused!!




This urban jungle is also home to someone I hadn't expected to find, Monkeys!



Unlike the shy urban foxes of the UK, these guys openly walked around the upper stories of the streets, venturing down to grab at any unsuspecting package left unattended.


Ahead of me stood a gateway and the maze of streets suddenly opened up to a huge crossroads. Traffic lights held back 5 converging streets. Tiny stalls lined every wall, charcoal burners filled the air with aromas and smoke. I looked at the map nothing looked familiar so I asked directions to the Train Station. “Old or New” came the reply. “New” I said firmly and arms and voices chimed together as 5 people began talking at once!



I crossed the roads in true Indian fashion, keep moving and avoid the trucks! I spotted a self service goat stand and couldn't resist a photo.


Eventually I reached the sprawling Train Station that separated me from main Bazaar Street. A quick word to the helpful taxi drivers soon had me heading towards the flyover that crossed the 16 tracks of rails, was this my missing road I wondered!!


I booked my ticket to Mathura for the morning and feeling increasingly pleased with myself crossed into Main Bazaar Street. 200M from the hotel I was approached by a woman carrying a baby with another two offspring holding onto her dress. “Milk for my baby?” she asked, “No money, just some milk for my baby!” I looked at the snotty children and nodded. She led me to the next store and asked for some powdered milk formulae. It was put in a bag and handed over. 450RPS the store man said looking me straight in the eye. 450!!! My room was only 500, my dress had cost 200. I looked at him in disbelief. To have asked double from a westerner I had expected but this was ridiculous. The woman melted into the crowd as I handed over the money, no doubt she would return soon to collect her share.

My mood had been spoilt. The £6 was not important but the way I had been used was upsetting. I returned to the Hotel and took refuge on the balcony. Tomorrow morning I would leave Delhi, a little poorer and hopefully a little wiser.