Anjuna Market

 Part 15

Anjuna Market

Anjuna Market is a tourist MUST while in Goa. The experience and sights are well worth the scam that is bound to get you at some point during the day. We parked the bikes up in one of the fields on the outskirts and walked along the road way packed with stalls that led to the market proper.

On my last visit to India I had had the offer of having my ears cleaned by a travelling beach ear cleaner. With no witnesses to see what he was putting IN my ear I had declined but with Peter plus two children as witnesses I was dying to have it done. In Anjuna there are ear cleaners by the dozen. We agreed a price of 50rupees for the whole family with a tall well built guy who led us off to a quiet area where we could sit. Three other guys came with us and we were quickly separated as each person tried to claim an ear. I declined as I watched carefully what two of the guys were doing to the children. Cians ears were quite clean but Angharads were filthy!

“Look lady” said the guy pulling Angharads ear so I could pear inside. Sand grains coated with thick wax filled her ear. I watched as he squeezed then eased one such 'stone' out. Suddenly a card appeared stating it cost a further 250 rupees to remove each 'stone' as he removed another and another. We were up to six stones from Angharad plus three from Peter when Peter realised what they were asking for 5,000 rupees for the removal of the stones that kept popping from Angharads and his ears.

With Angharad finishing on nine 'stones', Peter continued to debate the cost as my ears were cleaned. Cian watched closely as first one ear was wiped clean and then the other was reached for. “Listen” instructed my cleaner inserting his little wire. I heard a hard scraping noise deep inside my ear. “Stone!” he said and with a twist my hearing popped and it was out. He passed it to me to squish on my hand revealing the grains of sand that had bound together to form the small stone coated in the thick wax.

By now however Peter was getting annoyed. Three men were all demanding money from him, money he was not prepared to pay. He showed his wallet refusing to pay them what they were demanding.

“This is all I have” he finally stated, “Take it or put the stones back!” he challenged.

They took the offered money and melted into the crowd, scam completed and ready to find new victims. To be fair my hearing was amazing for the rest of the day and Peter still had plenty of money hidden in another part of his wallet.

A Lesson quickly learnt in India is to NEVER carry all your money where it can be seen. Keep a few small notes in a purse that is kept just for immediate use (as others will soon deduct what you have in there) and keep the rest carefully hidden.

A tourist and his money, so the saying goes, are easily parted in India!

With our hearing just about in tact we headed into the market for a rest-bite over breakfast.

Anjuna Market is vast and can totally over whelm the visitor on their first visit but bargains can be found if you are patient plus are prepared to walk away.

A bag was required now that I had shopped myself out in Arambol, a bag that in town had been offered to us for 600 rupees.

In the market the price was 400 rupees that came down to 300 as Peter turned to walk away.

Ten minutes later Peter was the proud owner of a large bag for 200 rupees and Cian had bought two of his take home presents for 100 rupees a bag. Mine had cost me 300 six years ago!!

I wandered in and out of the clothes shops marvelling at the colours and styles.

I gazed wishfully at the multi coloures mirrored belts

and silken throws wondering how much more I could fit into the new bag!

Sunlight danced across the mirrors on the puppets hanging at one stall.

The detail on their faces,

the folds of their ornate clothing moving in the slight breeze making them alive in their kingdom of strings.

We wandered and we looked.

Twice I returned to the Tibetan jewellery laid out in their pristine lines upon the floors, only to walk away telling myself I didn't NEED any more Indian silver!!

Fashions so simple yet so effective hung from roof tops,

Carvings of intricate design contrasted with the colours around.

Each time I return to Anjuna I discover some new idea,

a new style of art,

a new sight to amaze!

To Peter and the children this was ALL new.

They wandered picking things up, examining, asking questions.

They puzzled over locked boxes with hidden mechanisms,

they bartered over laser pens and electronics.

Eventually I could resist no more and sat down with a wonderful lady to examine her silk sarongs. “50 rupees each” she declared pulling out every one I so much as glanced at. I settled on a stool for the leisurely examination of her entire stock as others gathered and began to browse. Five sarongs later I thanked her profusely as she blessed my 'lucky' money before popping it into her blouse.

We performed another circuit of the outer stalls,

glanced briefly at the jewellry once more

before Peter found just the sort of stall he adored.

Pieces were picked up and tried for size.

It is truly amazing what can be found in Anjuna Market!

We returned to Aranbol along the picturesque route. We rode past our cottage in Morjim and into a crowd of boys still celebrating Holi,

we raced along the coast road past Aswem, past Madrem, past the restaurant on the hill to our huts deep in the heart of coastal Arambol.

We washed and changed, tried out all out new purchases and returned to the hill to watch the sun setting over the sea.

Anjuna by bike had been an amazing day,

and we glowed as much from the experience as from the sun as it set once more over the tranquil Arabian sea.