Thursday 2 September 2010

All Alone in Ho Chi Ming Airport

People mill about in the spotless airport as I sit quietly in my corner. Lisa and Steve have just boarded their plane, Kris is on the dive boat assembling today's kit and I have 5 more hours until it is time for me to check in. 5 whole hours to sit and think.

The past two days have flown by.

First there was yet another day of diving for Lisa, Steve and Nick, but this time Leslie joined us on the boat and while they dived, we topped up our tans and snorkelled along the reefs. Although diving allows you to quietly stay floating, waiting, watching, snorkelling has its own rewards, especially if you follow the divers from the surface. Not only can one watch the fish as they turn this way and that, but one can also watch the divers, bubbles sporadically bursting from their regulators. Walls of bubbles rising as they breath in unison

The divers search between the rocks, peer deeply into the coral, slowly scour the sand for tell tale signs of hidden life. When they find something special, something of interest, they look around for some one to tell, some one to share their discovery with. That is when you fill your lungs, that is when you dive down to join them, hovering as you look, smiling and signalling as you see what they see.

Leslie and I explored a bit on our own, searching for the swim through's at Octopus Rock. We played with the Clown fish, dipping to a bare 6 foot below the surface where they swam guarding their territory. They approached our masks, looking at us looking at them. They darted forward, warning us off. 2 inches of fish against 66 inches of human, 2 oz against 9 stone! Fearless little creatures.

Huge Trumpet fish patrolled the drop off, slipping in and out of the shadows, brightly coloured Parrot fish tore chunks off the reef. Everywhere you looked, fish flowed, swirled, darted. A shoal of young barracuda shimmered just below the surface, their sliver bodies catching the light. An hour of snorkelling passes nearly as quickly as an hour of diving. Time rushes by too quickly, leaving so much more to see.

We returned to the boat as Nick and the others surfaced. First ones in, last ones out yet again. Tales of sights, and experiences once more filled the boat, the hour of confined silence over, words falling over each other in their haste to be expressed.

Our second dive was at Tri Ming, the shallow reef running along the coast, perfect for snorkelling. This time we left the divers to go off alone, happy with our own shallow areas to explore. I pointed out Cornet Fish, a Box Fish, pleased with my new gained knowledge acquired from my previous dives. We found the tiny shrimp cleaning out the sandy burrow, keeping house while the friendly Goppi stood guard at the entrance.

We returned to the boat, to warm our bodies in the hot sun and awaited the return of the final divers. The sea had been as rewarding as always with her entertainment and we were sated for today.

As we left the dive site a huge cloud could be seen further up the coast. Rain fell in a solid sheet from its leading edge as it hung about 10k outside town. It was now a race to see who could get there first.

At the harbour it was still sunny. The kit was unloaded quickly and efficiently as the first of the winds approached. The mini bus raced us through town, as the first drops fell back at the harbour. With promises to meet up later, we strode purposefully back to the hotel as the sky darkened and as we sat quietly on our balcony, the heavens emptied for a few seconds before disappearing across town. The temperature dropped a touch and the heavy scent of fresh rain filled the air. Within minutes the sun returned, steaming the area, humidity soaking our bodies, temperatures again soaring. We slept for an hour, allowing it all to pass.

That evening we all met up at the Dive Shop to begin Steph's Birthday celebrations. Dinner in Kang Kat, with more and more chairs being added to the table as more and more people arrived.


Drinks in Old Guavas, music in Sailing Club. Beds were found at 1.30 and while the children slept I packed my room into my case once more.

Sunday 29th August, was Steph's official Birthday and our last day in Nha Trang. Lisa and Steve moved their belongings into my room and checked out of theirs. The swim gear was grabbed, Kris met us for breakfast and our last ventures onto the reef were made.

A touch of excitement was caused when a customer found a spider in her wet suit. Kris, thinking it was a tiny thing went poking his hand around trying to find it. When it voluntarily crawled out, his hand was removed very quickly. It was HUGE!!!!

At the dive sites Lisa, Steve and I once more followed Kris out into the depths, slowing as he sunk away into darkness. Suddenly Lisa pointed excitedly to something behind me. I turned to see a huge jelly fish, about 10 foot below the surface water, its skirts flowing in precise constrictions, propelling itself forward and down into the darkness again. We looked for Kris, this time it was us with the discovery to share.

With the excitement passed we shadowed Kris back over the reef, diving down repeatedly as he found a Frog Fish, Lion Fish and then a huge Peacock mantis shrimp. Our final dive in Nha Trang producing some amazing sights.

On the ride back to shore, we gave Steph her Birthday presents, the top deck becoming our own private domain.

Yet the count down had begun, bags needed to be packed, gifts for Simon bought and delivered, afternoon lunch, gifts for the loved ones back home and final goodbyes. We raced through town in different directions as the heavens teased us with instant down pours, only to steam the streets dry a few moments later.

Good byes are never easy, especially after we had all spent such a special time together. We all kissed and hugged, I got all emotional and asked Kris to find us a taxi. It was time to move on again.

At the train station we stood where we were directed to by the helpful staff.
“A slight delay” they said, “How long?” We countered. They smiled. Ten minutes later the board above our heads flashed a notice, we looked, the ladies looked.
“3 hour delay” they shrugged and smiled. THREE HOURS!!! We would miss the flight!

Lisa explained through broken English and sign language about the flight.
“3 hours no good”.
The lady looked concerned and drew Lisa and Steve through the doors to the ticket counter. I called Kris. While he and Steph checked for any available night buses, Lisa and Steve, with the aid of their lovely lady, enquired for alternatives with the Station Tticket lady. Phone calls were made, Kris called back, nothing with him. A taxi??

Suddenly there was a breakthrough, “Bus Station! You go Bus Station!”
The tickets were handed back, a 10% reduction on the refund was deducted as we were handing them in two hours before the train time, even though it was 3 hours late, and we were off. Our helpful lady ushered us outside and into the nearest taxi, calling instructions as she went. “Which bus?” Lisa asked, she paused for a moment, “I come!”. She climbed into the back with Lisa and Steve, waving enthusiastically at her friends. “Bye, See you later!” she called!

At the bus stop negotiations for tickets began. No sleeper seats, only a soft chair bus. If it got us there in time we didn't care. The tickets were purchased, all three coming to less that one of the refunded train tickets. The taxi was paid, our lady was thanked, her help being invaluable and we were told to wait.

Twenty minutes later we confirmed the time of departure. 8pm. It was now 8.15 and we weren't even on the bus.

8.30 and we asked again. By 9 we were getting concerned. “Bus????” we asked. They nodded and smiled.

Eventually a bus pulled into the space in front of us and we stowed our bags in the hold. Climbing aboard, we were shown to the very back, to where a gap between the back seats had been filled with huge bags of stock. These were our seats! We climbed over the bags and settled ourselves. It was not so bad, the bags were packed level with the seating which gave us beds, of a sort. They were a bit on the firm side but there was room to sort of curl up and sleep. It was the best we were going to get at this time of night and so we curled up.

9.15, 9.30. we began to worry about the accuracy of the arrival time if we stayed here much longer. 9.45 as I picked up the phone to call Kris, the bus burst into life, engine roaring as we pulled forward, I sent Kris a text to say we were on our way.

The journey was different. The uneven roads making sleeping on large packs of bike parts 'stimulating'.
But sporadic sleep we did, exhausted as we were by the whole drama and plus the morning of swimming.

We reached Saigon Bus Station at 5.45am, were in a taxi by 5.48 and at the Airport by 6.15. Lisa and Steve checked in their bags, the queue by now non existent. We briefly washed the journeys dust from our faces, sat for a moment or two and then said our goodbyes. Tears welled once more, as they has done with Kris. It will be OK, we reassured each other and they were gone.

5 hours in an Airport, 5 hours to sit and wait and think. 4 hours to go to sleep!

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