Life Continues on Tioman

The days begin to form a routine all on their own. The sun rises each day, the cats meow, people wander by outside our open window as we slowly stir in our beds. Morning yoga is followed by a stroll along the empty beach.

Pieces of coral are picked up as we walk, shells are examined and added to the growing collection. What once adorned our small balcony table has now been moved to decorated the pillar base. The wind-chimes made by previous occupants hang as a reminder of why we began our collection.


Mid morning breakfast, stretched with the aid of the back gammon board to encompass a few hours, is taken as the sun climbs into the sky.





Life is slow and I am amazed at how easily I have slipped into the relaxed pace. An afternoon nap, an hour in the sea and it is time to wash ready for our return to the bar.



The sun sets each evening, sometimes hidden behind distant cloud, sometimes in an array of colours magical to the eye. People come to sit and watch, silent in their own wonderment, cameras poised, at peace for the moment.



Evenings are spent playing games of chance a few feet from the lapping waves. Dinner, brought to our table by smiling faces. We retire to our room to sit out on the balcony for a few hours reading, chatting, writing before the net is dropped over the bed and we drift off to sleep, the sounds of the waves in the distance.



Then there are the days that are filled with activity! Yesterday it was decided that as there was cloud cover to cool the day, we would walk to Monkey Bay. Camera was packed along with some water, breakfast was forgone for the sake of an early start and at 8am we marched off into the jungle.

The Rough Guide (page700) describes the walk as 'after an initial scrabble – flattens out into an easy walk to Penuba bay. From here, its an hours walk to Monkey Beach'.

What it doesn't tell you is that from Penuba Bay onwards the trail climbs up rock faces, ropes have been tied so you can abseil down shear drops, creepers and branches lie across the path to be climbed over or under. Thorny bushes grab at your clothing and backpack as you pass.


Having spoken to Martin about the trip I was glad that he had mentioned the fact that the power cable runs near to the path. Each time I was unsure of our direction we were able to look up into the canopy and find the reassuring line of the dark cable as it too wound its way around the mountain. We emerged from the jungle drenched with sweat, amazed that some people PAY to do this sort of thing! The trees had been breathtaking, the sounds overwhelming, the creatures that had raced across our path both frightening and beautiful but it was hot, it was tiring, it was draining and we had to do it all over again on the return trip!

We walked down to the beach, walking carefully around the multitude of spider holes littering the floor. The cooling sea air on our bodies was a blessing as we dropped our bags and slept for an hour as the sun finally rose above the canopy bathing the beach in glorious sunshine.

The day was marvellous, we saw no one save the monkey who opened our bag, removed the camera, unzipped the front pocket and played with the lighter, while we raced back across the beach to rescue our belongings!

We swam naked in the sea, topping up the tans as we walked along the bay. We slept to the sound of the waves at our feet and tried not to think about the return journey.


As late afternoon approached a boat motored around the bay. “You want taxi?” he called. We declined, although tempted by the offer. “Next bay Monkey Bay” he called, “You need taxi you walk Monkey Bay!”, he waved goodbye and headed back out to sea.

If Monkey Bay was the next Bay over, where were we??

Another couple walked onto the beach in the distance, our Blue Lagoon Paradise was at an end. We gathered our few belongings, shouldered the bag and re-entered the jungle for the journey home. If we had thought we were hot at 8am, we were sweltering at 3pm. We stopped to catch our breath at the top of each climb, sat for a few moments at a tiny bay along the way to allow our faces to cool, sweat to dry, breath to return. I am neither fit nor unfit, yet the walk had drained me and we were grateful to see the end.

We washed in the sea, thankful for the cooling water surrounding us, we watched the fish feed oblivious to our presence, drifting with the waves. We showered away the salt, dried our hair in the breeze from the fan and having changed into our finery, we walked to the bar for a well earned drink!

Last night a huge storm raged as we slept safe in our beds. Rain poured down cooling the air enough for us to reach for a sarong to cover our bodies. Today it is warm and overcast, today is a rest day. Today is a day to sit and read, write and chat. Today is a good day.



Foot note – this evening as we snorkelled, later than usual, we came across a group of diamond shaped royal blue fish. They swarmed around us, curious or territorial, we are not sure. As we stretched our fingers towards them they came within an inch of our finger tips before darting away, only to return with the crowd a few moments later. At one point Peter trod water while he cleared his mask. A huge ball of fish surrounded his feet, darting here and there. Other fish joined the fray, twisting and turning, the ball growing bigger and bigger. I watched, amused by their bravery until they headed for me. There is something a bit disconcerting about having 60 or 70 6 inch fish racing towards you! We retreated, happy to leave them to their patch in the sea.

About 100m further we spotted a young Spotted Moray eel out in the open, he wriggled this way and that, searching for a crevice to conceal himself in. As we watched, he worked his way around a rock and disappeared into a small cave at its base, safe at last.

Our final find of the day was a wonderful flowing sea anemone complete with two large clown fish. I dove down closer only to have the two of them attack my mask. I surfaced laughing at their bravery and left them to their world.

Tonight the sea showed us that although many of her inhabitants may be small, they were still a force to be reckoned with!