Sunday 5 September 2010

Singapore to Tioman

After 5 hours of sitting in the simplicity of Ho Chi Ming Airport, the 7 hours, while I waited for Peters flight, spent sitting in the glorious opulence of Singapore Airport was easy. The airport is huge, you can catch trains from one area to the other, sit beside the various pools, meander over the bridges, surround yourself with flowers and easily pass a few hours watching the world go by or reading a book.


As the designated hour drew near, I scanned for Peters flight arrival on the large overhead boards. 'Flight from Seoul Landed' read the sign. I checked for the corresponding luggage carousel and knowing that he had put his case through as luggage, I headed off to wait by the nearest exit. Unlike my meeting with Kris two years ago, we found each other immediately and were soon heading off into the multitude of levels to find the train into town.

We emerged onto the quiet streets of Singapore with a vague idea of which direction to go. Nothing had been planned as such, so, with the Rough Guide in hand, we began to walk. At an intersection, while we waited to cross, we enquired from a fellow pedestrian what the hotel prices were like in this area. Having found out, we revised our plans and headed out of Singapore's Business quarter and into the quieter streets!

A hotel was found, simple and clean, drinks were drunk in the downstairs area and by 2am we were fast asleep, the air conditioning firmly turned off.

We awoke with yet another vague plan, this one consisted of heading off to Tioman Island in Malaysia for a week or so before returning to Singapore ready for our flights out. Again we consulted the Rough Guide, there was a direct bus to Mersing from Lavender Street. Lavender street was found on the map, the bags were packed, coffee was consumed in the cafe downstairs and we headed out into the streets of Singapore yet again.

Having arrived at Lavender Street Train Terminal we had a choice of two exits! We made a calculated guess based on luck, exited and decided that we may have made the wrong choice! As we turned to retrace our steps, we were approached by a Canadian Girl who asked if we knew where Lavender Bus Terminal was. She too was heading for Tioman. We joined forces and went on the march.

Between us we worked our way to Tioman in record time. The direct bus was full, so we shared a taxi, changed stations and another bus as far as JB was found. Together we negotiated the border crossing, changed money, shared another taxi to Mersing and boarded the last ferry of the day at 2pm.

The 3 hour crossing to the island was exhilarating. The chill of the air-con inside the cabin drove us outside to the back of the boat and into the warming sunshine and wind. We watched foaming water being driven stern-ward from the powerful engines, we popped our heads around the side, catching the full force of the wind, sprinkled with spray thrown up from the bow wave as we hurtled along.


We stepped onto the jetty at ABC Beach, walked down to the only 'street' and turned right. This time a firm plan to hand. Kris and Lisa had given me directions plus a hand drawn map to YP, the place that Kris had lived at during his 6 months on the island. They were unfortunately full, so we wandered further down, booked into Mokthas and unpacked the bags.

We were here!

It is amazing how quickly one makes friends on a small island. As you pass each other on the narrow road, hello's are exchanged. And hour later as you pass again, you stop for a moment. “Hello again”. Points of origin are exchanged, destinations, durations of stays, interesting antidote soon follow. Within an hour we had discovered, with the help of Martin, where the Happy Hour was being held and were off to explore the far end of the bay!

Three beers for the price of two. The first is served chilled from the fridge, two shells placed beside it representing the beers remaining in their icy lair. I drank the water, taking a quick from Pete's fresh chilled cans as they arrived. We retired to our beds that night very happy people.

Wednesday 1st September. Time is passing but today is a new day. We awoke quite surprised to find it still dark at 5am, rolled over and went back to sleep. Days begin and end this close to the equator in abruptness that is disconcerting. One moment you are sitting there with the sun in your eyes sipping a beer, the next it is totally dark, candle light illuminating your glass. Mornings are the same. When the sun rises, it is instantly day.


Morning ablutions were performed followed by my gentle yoga routine. We walked the deserted beach collecting broken coral washed onto the shore as we went. Breakfast was sought at the restaurant next-door, backgammon was played.

A young boy, curious of the thrown dice and moving counters, edged his way towards us. Smiles and names were exchanged, I was renamed Cherry, Kerriann being just too much for his tongue and he pulled up a chair. The game deteriorated into chaos as he threw the dice for me and then randomly moved the counters. We laughed when he laughed, all attempts to finish the game abandoned.


An hour in the water snorkelling between the outcrops of rock was followed by lunch, our young backgammon fiend once more soon at our table. As we lazed beneath the trees, our bellies full, our game again abandoned, Peter noticed a Welsh Dragon tattooed upon the shoulder of a fellow customer.

“What part of Wales are you from?” he smiled at the stranger. “I'm not, I'm Australian!” he countered. Grinning hugely Mat Cadwallider joined us to explain his unusual heritage. His grand parents had taken the £10 government settlement to settle in Aus after the Second World War. He had been born and bred in Australia but was planning on a visit to Wales in 2011 to trace his roots. Conversation flowed between us, we told him about the Happy Hour at 5pm, he told us stories of his travels.

At 5pm we met and exchanged many more tales of exploits and adventures as the beers and shells travelled across the bar. With Mat's encouragement (well one has to blame someone) twice the previous nights beers were consumed! Food was urgently required as we made our way back to our end of the bay. Feeling slightly revived after our curried noodles and fried rice, we said good night to Mat and headed to our room, while he returned to the bar!!!!

Thursday 2nd September.


Another day in paradise. Yoga was moved to the deserted beach. The sound of the waves marking time to the slow movements. An hour of snorkelling followed as we worked our way along the beach to the jetty. The visibility is not as clear as Vietnam, the coral not as bright but the fish were there in force, Box Fish, Cleaner Wrasse, Clown Fish guarding their anemones, small blue spotted rays hidden in the sand.

We emerged from the water, showered and went for lunch. Without the help from our friend we managed an entire set of backgammon games before a powerful hot wind began to blow across the sea. Chairs turned over, sun-umbrellas turned inside out, people grabbed at their books and belongings as the wind from nowhere shook the trees with force. A concerned local came up and pointed to a large bees nest in the tree above us.

“Not good” he said “If nest falls, maybe bees think you do and attack!” We took his advice and moved away! The wind soon died down, the storm rained in the distance. Matt arrived with tales from the next bay and it's duty free shop. We arranged to meet again in the bar.


It is definitely Mats influence that caused us to stray once more, this time Bailey's being added to the drinks list and bill. Conversations flowed freely as the sun slid below the horizon, contact details were exchanged with the staff soon to be venturing to Australia, laughter grew loud, the 'lady talent' remarked upon, before we eventually found solace in communal food. Fried rice, it has been decided, tastes so much better when it has someone else's curry sauce on! We bade him good night as he returned to the bar and we to our beds.

It was a very wiped out Mat, who came to our door today. The evening had deteriorated, or exceeded previous expectations, depending on your view-point, when he had returned to the bar. He dropped his bags with us for safe keeping and headed off to find his 'thongs' and 'laundry'!!! A cooling drink (Non Alcoholic) was shared on the balcony before he set off to catch his flight to Singapore.

The rest of the day has passed quite peacefully. We swam for a while, lay on the beach salt encrusted skin drying in the sun. We watched another storm sweep in from the sea, thunder and lightening drawing ever nearer.


Mat's plane took off in the distance, Pete and I read books on the balcony as the rain fell silently from the sky. Tonight we will NOT be going to the bar.


Tonight we will eat early, play a few more games of backgammon and fight away the mosquitoes as they take to the sky after this afternoons rain.



Well there have to be a few annoyances in Paradise!

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