Birds and bugs hang around our cabin.
The resident cat has moved onto our balcony.
Each evening as we walk to the bar large Monitor Lizards slowly amble across our path, taking swipes at passing motor bikes.
Enormous bats hang from the trees, fanning themselves as the heat bakes the air each day.
Thin green snakes slither through the branches over head while we lie on the beach, shaded from the mid-day sun in the shadow of the leaves.
Monkeys walk around the chalets looking for opportunities.
We have heard wonderful and exciting stories of the exploits and mischief these various animals can get up to, stories of missing bikini tops being thrown around in the upper reaches of trees while the owner can only watch, being the most frequent.
We sat quietly on the balcony two days ago, cat by our side, monkeys wandering in the distance. Out of curiosity I threw a small chunk of biscuit out onto the grass. A large dominant male approached cautiously. I threw another piece and grabbed the camera. What happened next will remain in my memory forever. As I circled the monkey to get Peter and the hut into the shot, the monkey began to turn away.
I called to Peter to throw another piece of biscuit which he did. As I took photos the large male decided he didn't like being fed bit by bit and made a huge jump onto our balcony table. Never have I seen a man, of such bulk, move so fast as Peter headed through our open door and shut it rapidly behind him!
Realising there were no biscuits on the table, our large male returned to the grass just outside the door, eyeing the doorway suspiciously every time Peter opened it a crack, while I laughed from the other side of the lawn.
Peter was eventually saved by the goat who, having broken his mooring, decided that if there was food involved he wanted some! The goat lowered his head and threateningly approached the male, who to his credit ambled off quietly. The goat then looked to the balcony, decided that it was well and truly deserted and left!Peter emerged slowly, the cat resumed her place, I walked back across the lawn and normality returned!
Sea life although not quite as exciting, also has its moments. We booked a trip to Coral Island yesterday, a day of snorkelling out to sea exploring reefs other than our own. At the first stop we were told of a turtle that swam near the shore, usually near to the point. We entered the water and, without the aid of fins, began to swim against the strong current. We must have swum three times the distance to reach the point as the water tried to carried us in the opposite direction, but we were rewarded by the turtle as he fed on the coral beneath us. We stopped swimming and enjoyed the sea's ride back to the boat, observing the fish and coral as we went.
Our second stop was at Coral Garden, a place of magnificent beauty. Tall columns of table top coral, mounds of rippling brain coral, skeletal trees and circled fans shaped the sea floor. Dips, hollows, walls and spires, all lending themselves to become home for the thousands of fish who worked their way through their convoluting shapes. A sea snake, banded pale blue and black, about 6 foot long, worked his way between the crags, the flattened end of his tail propelling him through the water as he moved from place to place. I dove down marvelling at the detail of his scales, his skin exactly the same as the land snakes bred by Lisa, his yellow tipped head eyeing me as I watched him.
A huge Napoleon fish swam past, the large bulbous mound on his head looking like a battering ram. I swam beside him looking into his eye, for a moment he tolerated my presence before, with a flick of his tail, he shot into the distance.
Lunch was taken at Salang, the last beach on Tioman. I found the hammock I had been looking for, we dined on Magnum Ice cream, the first dairy to pass our lips in over a week and rested from our mornings exertions.
Our final stop was at Monkey Bay, the place we had failed to reach before. The tide was low leaving the coral close to the surface. We swam further out to sea, watching never ending shoals of fish stream past. Three more enormous Napoleon fish cruised in the depths, again I dove down the 10m to swim with them, again they left me standing as they moved into deeper water.
Back at the boat, our driver had produced some bread to encourage the fish nearer to the boat. He offered me a piece which I held in my hand as I sunk beneath the surface. Fish descended in their thousands, all nipping, all tearing at the small piece of bread. When the bread was gone they continued to nip at my fingers, my toes, the strings of my bikini. I laughed into my snorkel, nearly choking in the process! I surfaced for more bread and repeated the scenario. The water was thick with the bodies of fish as they brushed past me to swarm my hand, again they continued to nip gently once the food had gone, again the laughter threatened to overwhelm me.
We returned to ABC Beach tanned nicely, fed well and entertained to perfection. The hammock was strung across the balcony, cards were played as the sun sunk beneath the horizon. In 24 hours we were due to leave this wonderful place to return to Singapore. There was a shark trip happening tomorrow, maybe just one more day? One more day wouldn't hurt!!!
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A quick foot note about the bar we all hang out in is worth a mention here.
Right at the far end of the beach, the opposite end to where we are staying, is a tiny bar on the side of the beach, called Hallo.
Christine has been there for 18 months, Ashh only three weeks. Each evening between the hours of 5pm and 7pm is Happy Hour.
It is also the time of the sunset and the most perfect place to watch it descend into the darkened depths of the sea. Soft Reggae music plays, occasionally chill-out sounds emit from the tiny laptop and speaker. Money is exchanged for shells, that are exchanged for drinks. People meet, information is exchanged, experiences shared, e-mails swapped, stories, told while we all relax together, the sand beneath our feet.
Christine also makes wonderful jewellery, some of which now adorn my ears. Personal pieces are made as she wiles away the day, each piece unique, each hand made.
Many of the sunsets have been breath-taking, the sky glowing gold, then red or pink. Reflections on the water, shadows of the trees, highlights picked up, contrasts defined, ever changing from one moment to the next. As darkness descends, Happy Hour over, we make our way back down the bay to our restaurant. There we are greeted by Safi, who has eagerly awaited our arrival. Drawings are drawn, games are played, numbers are practised but most of all, backgammon is destroyed!!
Today is Friday 10th September, the end of Ramadam. The shark trip never happened as not enough people wanted to go but the sun was hot and we spent the day lounging in the sea, playing cards in the shade and drinking in the bar as the sun set yet again. Today, as we sat on the balcony, the end of a storm depositing the last of its rain onto the ground, we checked our flight details. We had originally planned to return to Singapore for the last three days of our trip, this had been changed to two days but as I looked at my flight details, dates instead of days became the reality. For some reason I was convinced that I flew out on Sunday. The 11th I soon discovered was a Saturday. Tomorrow in fact!
There is nothing we can do today, save sit in the cool air, walk along the deserted beach, swim in the tranquil sea but tomorrow we must catch the first ferry out of here(7.30am) make our way through Malaysia, cross the border into Singapore and then make our way to the airport to catch a flight by 6pm!!
No more lazy days I fear. Mission on …..................... but not until the morning......!
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