The arrival of Charlotte Ann Fox into the world in October 2017, (Little Bean to her Big Sister Emelia!!), allowed her father to take some long over due holiday time to be with his
family which also allowed me the freedom to do some more travelling.
In the days leading up to Charlotte's
birth I had looked a various options. I applied to various Workaways
but as I was unsure of the dates involved (babies are a law unto them
selves when it comes to birth dates!) my applications were a bit
vague.
Kris was no longer working in Cebu so
although going to Mactan was out, there were many other Philippine
islands I could visit. I read the Rough Guide to Bali but then
remembered the volcano that was rumbling down south.
I looked at
Thailand but the journey was long and I didn't really want to spend
too much money on flights.
When Charlotte arrived two weeks early
(following a wonderful pedicure and leg massage where Lisa had
encouraged the lady to 'Massage to start the labour' ) I was thrown
into a quandary.
The few Workaways who had replied didn't have
vacancies and silence issued from the rest.
I sent a flurry of messages out but
when no one replied to my short notice requests I decided to treat
myself to a holiday instead!
Eight years previously Kris had worked
at a Dive centre in Tioman off the east Malaysian coast.
Peter and I
had met up for two weeks in this Island paradise when I had first
gone round the world in 2010.
At that time we had stayed at ABC beach
but a quick google search revealed that there were many other beaches
on Tioman.
Even though ABC had everything I
required, Nipah looked to be the quietest and most relaxed so I made
my plans.
Early MRT to the border, bus to Mersing, Ferry to Genting
on Tioman and then a water taxi to Nipah.
With my plans completed I
packed a bag, only to be asked that evening by both my daughter and
her husband to stay for the weekend!!
Having a baby along with a
nearly three year old was a bit more complex than they had
anticipated!!
I went shopping to stocked up the
fridge with food, baked a couple of cakes to keep them going, swept
through the apartment and cleared all the laundry baskets before with
their 'OK, we can cope now' I put my plan into operation.
At 7am Tuesday morning I shouldered my
back pack and headed to the MRT.
From Lakeside I headed to Kranji and
from there I spent an entire S$1.80 (90p) to catch the 170 bus that
crosses the border to Larkin Bus terminal.
At the border there was the usual
rigmarole of, off the bus at the Singapore Immigration to get our
stamp to leave the country.
The back on the bus to get to the
Mayasian side.
Off once more to get our passports stamped with the
Malay Immigration, then back on the bus until we reached Larkin.
I had already researched that to catch
the bus to Mersing I needed to first get a ticket from Counter 34 in
the large Larkin bus terminal.
The internet, plus the few Blogs I had
read said the cheapest way was the bus leaving at 11.45 which cost
about 10 ringgits.
My crossing had been so smooth that I
arrived at Larkin by 9am.
A two and three quarter hour wait seemed
silly so I asked at the neighbouring counters to see if there were
any earlier ones.
For double the price at 20 ringgits (there are 5.5
ringgets to the UK pound) there was a bus leaving in ten minutes!
I happily handed over the equivalent of
£4 to the International Bus Company and headed to the bus via the
money exchange in the station.
(Who actually offer a better rate than
in Immigration who would only change my Singapore money not my UK
pounds)
Within minutes of boarding, the bus was
easing its way through the busy city traffic before at last, it broke
loose and began thundering down the road and away from the city.
I sat back as the tall buildings gave
way to greenery.
Acres of fields were covered in fine black mesh to
protect the young plants from the ferocious heat of the day.
A far
cry to the acres of polly tunnels seen in areas of Europe!
Greenery gave way to palm plantations,
some newly planted, others towering into the sky.
Monkeys ran along the side of the road
as the traffic became sparse and our driver (obviously in a hurry)
began to weave across the road to avoid potholes and other minor
obstructions!
Asia is famous for its erratic driving
and after the security and calmness of Singapore my Malaysian bus
journey proved to be most bone shaking!
Road markings seemed to be
recommendations only as our driver ignored double white lines and
even thatched areas reserved for those wishing to turn right.
After a while our driver, in his
infinite wisdom, decided that the smoothest path to follow was the
one that straddled the middle markings, which is fine until you round
a corner to find someone with the same thought process heading your
way!
We swerved a few times, bounced more
than once until at 11.50 (having had two pick up stops plus a loo
stop for the driver) we arrived in Mersing.
A journey that supposedly takes two and
a half hours had been completed in less that two!!!!
In Mersing I was dropped at a
roundabout and instructed to walk 'that way' by the driver.
Although
I had eaten some left over massala en-route, I stopped to pick up a
few supplies (plus an ice-cream) before heading 'that way' (?) to the Ferry Terminal.
As I approached the jetty entrance, I was passed by many
people carrying back packs or suitcases and reassured that the ferry
must have just arrived I hurried forward only to be stopped by an old
man by the gate.
“Where you go?” he asked with a
wide smile.
“Tioman” I smiled back.
As the
ferry only went to Tioman I was confused by his question.
“Ferry gone” he added pulling an
old folded timetable from his pocket.
I looked at the timetable in his hand.
When Peter and I had come to Tioman there had been ferries leaving
every two hours or so but that had been in the August high season.
Now it was approaching the rainy season and sure enough the ferry
only ran once a day from Mersing at 12 non sharp.
I looked again at the piece of dirty
paper spotting a ferry departure of 4pm.
“There is a ferry at 4?” I asked
He looked at the timetable.
“That
ferry is from Tanjung Gemuk,” he looked at me apologetically as my
hopes of reaching Tioman that day fell.
“Come,” he said “I take you to my
friend to explain.”
We walked across to the main ticket
building where he introduced me to his friend. To get to Tanung
involved either another bus journey or a taxi at eighty ringgit.
I asked
how much a room was in Mersing....... twenty ringgit, was the reply!
OK I agreed, I will stay tonight and
catch the ferry on Wednesday.
His friend began to write my ticket. Seventy ringgets was the price for a return trip.
He dated the first one for October 11th but left the second one blank ready for my open return. As I
was sorting out money another customer entered the building.
“Ferry gone,” called out my guide
heading in his direction, “You join this lady and go tomorrow? My
friend here will do tickets!”
Confused the man walked over, “There
is a ferry at 4pm” he stated.
“Yes but from other ferry place. You
need taxi.”
I looked hopefully at the man,
“I'll go halves if you want to share”
I volunteered.
“I have a car” he replied.
A smile
spread across my face,
“Could I have a lift?” I beamed.
“Could I have a lift?” I beamed.
Rafa and I introduced ourselves as the
guys wrote us out new tickets for the 4pm ferry. Originally from
Spain Rafa loved to travel but unlike me he like to do it by car!
Every time he had the chance to explore
a new place he would hire a car, sort out his sat nav and head off
exploring the places that tourists don't usually go. Based in IT he
was wandering around looking for a location where he could settle for
a few months and work from home.
Tioman was one of those places he
wanted to check out.
The journey to Tanjung Gemuk took about
20 minutes and during this time I explained what I remembered of
Tioman.
Jafa had made no plans and was slightly concerned that he
hadn't made any accommodation bookings.
I explained that ABC was full
of chalets and as the season was ending there would be plenty of
empty rooms.
By the time we arrived at the Terminal
I had redesigned my mental plan to go and live in isolation in Nipah.
ABC offered easy accommodation, many places to eat, people to hang
out with and as Rafa had assisted me in getting to the Ferry the
least I could do was introduce him to the Island.
We handed over our passports and ticket
reservations for inspection, paid the compulsory 30 ringgit donation
to the marine conservation on the Island and waited for the ferry.
The crossing was smooth and as the sun
broke through the clouds we sat out side to enjoy the views.
Inside the ferry the aircon was set to
what felt like minus 20!!
But sitting on the back of the boat with
the hot sun balanced by the breeze it was bliss
Soon the island was in sight.
Rising
majestically from the sea this small but compact Island is a mass of
vegetation with about 9 main villages situated along the coast.
It also has some amazing mountain
profiles!!
The ferry stops at a few places before
arriving at ABC but we were still there by 6pm. Plenty of time to
find somewhere to stay before it got too dark.
The jetty at ABC cuts the bay in
roughly half.
If you turn left at the exit, you head
for solid built rooms and cafes plus a resort or two, if you turn
right you head toward beach huts and maybe three places to eat?
I turned right, as beach huts are not
only more my thing but they are also cheaper!
Peter and I had stayed at a place
called Mokta when we had come to Tioman all those years ago and
according to the internet it was still going strong.
Unfortunately
they had no rooms so we asked at My Friends Place next door.
Ahmad looked at us as we walked in and
immediately offered us a large double room!!
“Not together,” I smiled, “You
have two single rooms please.”
He showed us to the various rooms
available, having chased the various monkeys off the roof,
immediately reducing their prices from 45 ringgit to 35!
£6 a night!
The rooms were basic but
clean and spacious.
Each had a small balcony that looked
over the sea,
a main room with a double bed plus
large mossie net and a typical beach hut bathroom.
There was no
aircon or hot water but to me this was fine.
There is nothing nicer than a cool
shower when the air temperature is in the 30s!
Having checked in and unpacked, we
headed to the only bar I knew at the far end of the beach.
Happy Hour was serving three beers for
14 ringgit so we bought three each and settled onto the balcony as
the last of the sun dipped into the sea.
I had left Singapore at 7am and by 7pm
I was happily ensconced on Tioman plus I had a beer!
Life didn't get much better!!