Ten days in Tioman - Arrival

The arrival of Charlotte Ann Fox into the world in October 2017, (Little Bean to her Big Sister Emelia!!), allowed her father to take some long over due holiday time to be with his family which also allowed me the freedom to do some more travelling.

In the days leading up to Charlotte's birth I had looked a various options. I applied to various Workaways but as I was unsure of the dates involved (babies are a law unto them selves when it comes to birth dates!) my applications were a bit vague.

Kris was no longer working in Cebu so although going to Mactan was out, there were many other Philippine islands I could visit. I read the Rough Guide to Bali but then remembered the volcano that was rumbling down south. 

I looked at Thailand but the journey was long and I didn't really want to spend too much money on flights.

When Charlotte arrived two weeks early (following a wonderful pedicure and leg massage where Lisa had encouraged the lady to 'Massage to start the labour' ) I was thrown into a quandary. 

The few Workaways who had replied didn't have vacancies and silence issued from the rest.

I sent a flurry of messages out but when no one replied to my short notice requests I decided to treat myself to a holiday instead!

Eight years previously Kris had worked at a Dive centre in Tioman off the east Malaysian coast. 

Peter and I had met up for two weeks in this Island paradise when I had first gone round the world in 2010. 

At that time we had stayed at ABC beach but a quick google search revealed that there were many other beaches on Tioman.

Even though ABC had everything I required, Nipah looked to be the quietest and most relaxed so I made my plans. 

Early MRT to the border, bus to Mersing, Ferry to Genting on Tioman and then a water taxi to Nipah.

With my plans completed I packed a bag, only to be asked that evening by both my daughter and her husband to stay for the weekend!! 

Having a baby along with a nearly three year old was a bit more complex than they had anticipated!!

I went shopping to stocked up the fridge with food, baked a couple of cakes to keep them going, swept through the apartment and cleared all the laundry baskets before with their 'OK, we can cope now' I put my plan into operation.

At 7am Tuesday morning I shouldered my back pack and headed to the MRT.

From Lakeside I headed to Kranji and from there I spent an entire S$1.80 (90p) to catch the 170 bus that crosses the border to Larkin Bus terminal.

At the border there was the usual rigmarole of, off the bus at the Singapore Immigration to get our stamp to leave the country. 

The back on the bus to get to the Mayasian side. 

Off once more to get our passports stamped with the Malay Immigration, then back on the bus until we reached Larkin.

I had already researched that to catch the bus to Mersing I needed to first get a ticket from Counter 34 in the large Larkin bus terminal. 

The internet, plus the few Blogs I had read said the cheapest way was the bus leaving at 11.45 which cost about 10 ringgits.

My crossing had been so smooth that I arrived at Larkin by 9am. 

A two and three quarter hour wait seemed silly so I asked at the neighbouring counters to see if there were any earlier ones. 

For double the price at 20 ringgits (there are 5.5 ringgets to the UK pound) there was a bus leaving in ten minutes!

I happily handed over the equivalent of £4 to the International Bus Company and headed to the bus via the money exchange in the station. 

(Who actually offer a better rate than in Immigration who would only change my Singapore money not my UK pounds)

Within minutes of boarding, the bus was easing its way through the busy city traffic before at last, it broke loose and began thundering down the road and away from the city.

I sat back as the tall buildings gave way to greenery. 

Acres of fields were covered in fine black mesh to protect the young plants from the ferocious heat of the day. 

A far cry to the acres of polly tunnels seen in areas of Europe!

Greenery gave way to palm plantations, some newly planted, others towering into the sky.

Monkeys ran along the side of the road as the traffic became sparse and our driver (obviously in a hurry) began to weave across the road to avoid potholes and other minor obstructions!

Asia is famous for its erratic driving and after the security and calmness of Singapore my Malaysian bus journey proved to be most bone shaking! 

Road markings seemed to be recommendations only as our driver ignored double white lines and even thatched areas reserved for those wishing to turn right.

After a while our driver, in his infinite wisdom, decided that the smoothest path to follow was the one that straddled the middle markings, which is fine until you round a corner to find someone with the same thought process heading your way!

We swerved a few times, bounced more than once until at 11.50 (having had two pick up stops plus a loo stop for the driver) we arrived in Mersing.

A journey that supposedly takes two and a half hours had been completed in less that two!!!!

In Mersing I was dropped at a roundabout and instructed to walk 'that way' by the driver. 

Although I had eaten some left over massala en-route, I stopped to pick up a few supplies (plus an ice-cream) before heading 'that way' (?) to the Ferry Terminal.

As I approached the jetty entrance, I was passed by many people carrying back packs or suitcases and reassured that the ferry must have just arrived I hurried forward only to be stopped by an old man by the gate.

“Where you go?” he asked with a wide smile.

“Tioman” I smiled back. 

As the ferry only went to Tioman I was confused by his question.

“Ferry gone” he added pulling an old folded timetable from his pocket.

I looked at the timetable in his hand. 

When Peter and I had come to Tioman there had been ferries leaving every two hours or so but that had been in the August high season. 

Now it was approaching the rainy season and sure enough the ferry only ran once a day from Mersing at 12 non sharp.

I looked again at the piece of dirty paper spotting a ferry departure of 4pm.

“There is a ferry at 4?” I asked

He looked at the timetable. 

“That ferry is from Tanjung Gemuk,” he looked at me apologetically as my hopes of reaching Tioman that day fell.

“Come,” he said “I take you to my friend to explain.”

We walked across to the main ticket building where he introduced me to his friend. To get to Tanung involved either another bus journey or a taxi at eighty ringgit. 

I asked how much a room was in Mersing....... twenty ringgit, was the reply!

OK I agreed, I will stay tonight and catch the ferry on Wednesday. 

His friend began to write my ticket. Seventy ringgets was the price for a return trip. 

He dated the first one for October 11^th but left the second one blank ready for my open return. As I was sorting out money another customer entered the building.

“Ferry gone,” called out my guide heading in his direction, “You join this lady and go tomorrow? My friend here will do tickets!”

Confused the man walked over, “There is a ferry at 4pm” he stated.

“Yes but from other ferry place. You need taxi.” 

I looked hopefully at the man,

“I'll go halves if you want to share” I volunteered.

“I have a car” he replied. 

A smile spread across my face,

“Could I have a lift?” I beamed.

Rafa and I introduced ourselves as the guys wrote us out new tickets for the 4pm ferry. Originally from Spain Rafa loved to travel but unlike me he like to do it by car!

Every time he had the chance to explore a new place he would hire a car, sort out his sat nav and head off exploring the places that tourists don't usually go. Based in IT he was wandering around looking for a location where he could settle for a few months and work from home.

Tioman was one of those places he wanted to check out.

The journey to Tanjung Gemuk took about 20 minutes and during this time I explained what I remembered of Tioman. 

Jafa had made no plans and was slightly concerned that he hadn't made any accommodation bookings. 

I explained that ABC was full of chalets and as the season was ending there would be plenty of empty rooms.

By the time we arrived at the Terminal I had redesigned my mental plan to go and live in isolation in Nipah. 

 ABC offered easy accommodation, many places to eat, people to hang out with and as Rafa had assisted me in getting to the Ferry the least I could do was introduce him to the Island.

We handed over our passports and ticket reservations for inspection, paid the compulsory 30 ringgit donation to the marine conservation on the Island and waited for the ferry.

The crossing was smooth and as the sun broke through the clouds we sat out side to enjoy the views.

Inside the ferry the aircon was set to what felt like minus 20!! 

But sitting on the back of the boat with the hot sun balanced by the breeze it was bliss

Soon the island was in sight. 

Rising majestically from the sea this small but compact Island is a mass of vegetation with about 9 main villages situated along the coast.

It also has some amazing mountain profiles!!

The ferry stops at a few places before arriving at ABC but we were still there by 6pm. Plenty of time to find somewhere to stay before it got too dark.

The jetty at ABC cuts the bay in roughly half.

If you turn left at the exit, you head for solid built rooms and cafes plus a resort or two, if you turn right you head toward beach huts and maybe three places to eat?

I turned right, as beach huts are not only more my thing but they are also cheaper!

Peter and I had stayed at a place called Mokta when we had come to Tioman all those years ago and according to the internet it was still going strong. 

Unfortunately they had no rooms so we asked at My Friends Place next door.

Ahmad looked at us as we walked in and immediately offered us a large double room!!

“Not together,” I smiled, “You have two single rooms please.”

He showed us to the various rooms available, having chased the various monkeys off the roof, immediately reducing their prices from 45 ringgit to 35!

£6 a night! 

The rooms were basic but clean and spacious.

Each had a small balcony that looked over the sea,

a main room with a double bed plus large mossie net and a typical beach hut bathroom. 

There was no aircon or hot water but to me this was fine.

There is nothing nicer than a cool shower when the air temperature is in the 30s!

Having checked in and unpacked, we headed to the only bar I knew at the far end of the beach.

Happy Hour was serving three beers for 14 ringgit so we bought three each and settled onto the balcony as the last of the sun dipped into the sea.

I had left Singapore at 7am and by 7pm I was happily ensconced on Tioman plus I had a beer!

Life didn't get much better!!