India April 2010

It is 16 weeks to the BIG TRIP and I have just returned from a quick visit to India with Peter and the children. They have never been anywhere in Asia before, so this was a real adventure for them.


We arrived at Trivandrum, 5am India time, following the usual long flight over. Both Cian, aged 8 and Jec, aged 13, were suitably impressed with the in-flight entertainment plus the duty free in Doha.



The moist Indian heat enveloped us as we got off the plane, warm humid air filling our lungs and the reassuring “I'm back” swept over my body as familiar aromas and sounds surrounded me.




Having booked no accommodation for the entire trip, we caught a taxi down to Light House Beach in Kovalam where we sat on the beach front, in the dark, until the sun made its way into the clear morning sky, heralding the new day. Breakfast was had as the first of the cafés awoke and then we began our wanderings to look for rooms, suitable to our needs and pocket. The first ones we found were indeed good, but so was the price attached. It was also right on the sea front and although the breeze would have been refreshing, the evening noise from the people and cafés would have become annoying over time.

We wandered on, down one of the side alleys, around a few corners and found just what we needed. Eight rooms on two stories, good sized balconies overlooking a small courtyard with a well and grass plus three washing lines! You can never find enough washing lines in those posh places!! The bags were unpacked, an hours sleep was had and we were ready to face the day and headed for the beach.





Kovalam is a tourist resort. There is no getting away from the fact but it is still a nice place to catch your breath, as well as being a good place to ease the children into a whole new concept of life. The temperatures were 35+, the mosquitoes annoying, the language and people unfamiliar yet the cold bottles of Coke, Cheese Jaffles and Pizza allowed everyone to feel safe.



We spent two days in Kovalam getting acclimatised and making travel plans. Our two rooms were everything we could require, so we checked our dates, re-ran our plans and booked the same rooms ready for our return in two weeks. A taxi was called to take us to Trivandrum Bus Station and we were on our way.



Our first stop was to be the Neyar Dam up in the Cardamom mountains. When Mark and I had visited it 6 years earlier it had been in pristine condition. The Dam itself had been furnished with Victorian lamps and iron work, so that one felt as if one should promenade along its walkway, in full evening dress with a large parasol! This time however the place had the feeling of long term neglect.

Flowerbeds lay empty and parched, the government Guest House was closed for refurbishment, the Boat trips sat empty. We sat in the shade of the Guest House and listened to the sounds of the lake .



Cian found a huge Millipede, Jec took some photos. Without accommodation available our plans had to change, a new idea formed and we began the walk back down the hillside to the bus station.


On route we met another family on their way to the top. They were as curious about us as the boys were curious about them, so pleasantries and names were exchanged, photos were taken and amid much thanks and broad smiles, we continued our way back to the bus stop.


On our way up to the Dam we had passed through a town decked out with bunting, as we returned to the bus station there, we became more aware that something unusual was happening. The town was full of people, small fires lined the pavements manned by busy women in stunning sari's.

Ribbons and bunting flew overhead, horns sounded loudly and music blasted from speakers throughout the town. Not that this was unusual but the fires on the pavements were.


With smiles and sign language we checked the times of the connecting bus. We had an hour to wait. Food supplies were sought as Pon Mudi food is limited and I wanted to make sure the children would not go hungry. We found a lovely little shop that sold cakes and Samosa's, much to Peters delight, as well as the usual crisps and snacks. Loaded with our lunch, plus enough biscuits and drinks to last the evening, we went to sit on the pavement just out side the Bus Station.

We soon became the focus of attention as the only white faces in town. A lovely man wandered over to say hello and to practice his English. Having chatted for ten minutes about our names, work, ages and where we came from, he said goodbye, only to return a few moments later with a large bunch of red grapes for us all! Enormous smiles and words of thanks flowed between us all, before we moved into the Bus Station itself to find our bus.


While we waited we got chatting to a Dr. who ran an orphanage back up at the Dam. It is amazing how many people want to talk to you when you are the only white face in town. I asked about the cooking on the side of the road and all the fine sari's that people were wearing. He explained that today was a big Festival Day. He wasn't sure which Deity was being celebrated, as he was Christian, but he did know that it was a huge celebration that would last for at least two days. We chatted for a while longer about his work and our plans, he kindly pointed out the right bus when it arrived, shouting instructions to the driver as he helped us on board. We waved our goodbyes and settled for the trip up into the mountains.

The bus was packed upon its arrival into the bus station and even more packed by the time it came for its departure. People clung to the overhead bars, children were piled up onto laps, bags were passed back and for, as people settled into any available space. The breeze through the open windows was most welcome after the time we had spent in the bus station, and the views on the way through the valley and up further into the mountains, were breathtaking.


As we drove along, various people were deposited at their destinations and the seating became less crowded. Cian was able to get off my lap and sit next to the lady behind us. At the next stop, however, an entire school of junior ages children piled onto the bus squashing into Cian's seat, amongst others, and chattering nineteen to the dozen to him. I passed over a tube of polos and friendships were instantly struck. The children continued with us for quite a distance until, as suddenly as they arrived, they were gone.


The climb up to Pon Mudi was slow and twisting. Twenty two hairpin bends mark the beginning of the long haul up the side of the mountain. The palms gave way to rubber trees and tea bushes. Workmen lined the sides of the road, widening it by a few foot. I wondered about their timing with the monsoon arriving in only a few weeks!



Pon Mudi As Seen On TV!! For any of you who managed to see Mark and I on the Holiday Showdown Program, Pon Mudi is indeed as it was portrayed. Totally breathtaking. The actual site is nothing special, yet the views and feelings of peace and tranquillity are abundant. Bird song fills the air, hills stretch outward to the horizon, miles and miles of tea, multitudes of trees, valleys, greens of every hue fill the vista.

We checked into our 'basic' rooms and went exploring. The park was a huge hit with the children, the swinging chair bringing shrieks of terror from Cian, as Jec swung it up to the horizontal bar. Dinner, as expected, was spicier than the children and myself could cope with. 'No Spices' had been requested and delivered according to the cook, yet it was still enough to bring tears to the eyes and numbness to the throat! Armed with their packets of biscuits, the children and I scanned the ice cream selection in the tiny shop and retired to our balconies happy.


Once the sun sets, darkness envelopes the mountain. Tiny lights twinkled amongst the distant hills, pin pointing small hamlets but these lights were soon extinguished as the people found their beds. We sat out in the still night, a full moon rose, silhouetting the lightning struck tree outside our balcony.

Although beautiful, one night in the isolation of the mountain is enough, with two boisterous boys!! By lunch time the next day they had climbed everything that was climbable, eaten everything they had hidden around their back packs, written and posted their postcard and were ready to move on.


The trip back down the mountain is also so much more fun than the slow climb up. The bus hurtled down the middle of the road, brakes squealing and smoking, as corners were taken at speeds that buses are not meant to take corners at! Our bus driver informed us we had to change buses to get to Trivandrum, as they only went to our connecting bus station and back up the mountain.
As we pulled into the bus stop he pointed to our next bus, it was the one pulling in behind us. Off the one bus and straight onto the next and we were once again hurtling along the road on our way back to the city.

From the bus stop in Trivandrum, we walked across the road and into the train station. 'Train goes five minutes!' the helpful Indian ticket lady informed me. I grabbed the tickets, yelled to the children and set off at a gallop towards the platform. A train was just pulling out! 'Next platform' the platform manager informed me. We raced back up the stairs along the walkway back down onto the next platform and dived onto the packed train. We were off!


Now when I had said we would do a day of travel, followed by a day of rest, I had not envisioned just how much travel I could squeeze into the day. Our day of rest had just evolved into two long bus trips and a train ride and it was still only 5pm!

We arrived at Varkla ready for a sit down, as the train ride had not produced any spare seating until the last stop. The rickshaw dropped up at the Cliff Top and with our bags on our backs, we began our search for rooms. The Bamboo Village had also stared in the Holiday Showdown program and I wanted to take the boys and Peter there. As we walked along the cliff top, I realised how much had changed over the 4 years. All the gaps were now full. Gone were the huts and small rooms, the tiny bars and stalls. Posh hotels offering ayurvedic treatments, manicured lawns and glass fronted shops now adorned the walkway. As we neared the end of the cliff walk, these new structures gave way to the ones I remembered and around the final bend, lay the Bamboo Village. Not quite as I remembered it, as all the huts had been rebuild, but it still boasted the open garden, the swinging hammocks and the private huts. We booked in and sat down, as a huge thunderstorm swept in from the sea!!



Dinner that evening was taken not far from the Village as all the lights went out during the power-cut and rain was still falling from the thunderstorm. We climbed up onto the balcony of the restaurant next door with candles to light our way. Menus were produced and the 'delay due to no power' explained. They had food! We didn't care how long it would take, the fact they had food and somewhere dry to sit was plenty!

We sat, watching the lightening far out to sea. We sat, as the lightening rushed in to be overhead, enormous flashes and thunderous noise filled the air, then retreated back towards the tiny fishing boats bobbing on the horizon. Each flash illuminated hundreds of these boats, each roar made us feel sorry for those out there, while we sat safe with our wonderful meal.

The rain abated and we went to our beds. While Cian slept, the rest of us sat on the balcony watching lightening stream horizontally across the sky. Orange in colour, like Catherine wheeled fireworks they danced across the horizon. Never have I seen lightening like it, it was captivating to watch.

The next day dawned bright and clear. Armed with our new sun hats, we headed for the beach via the Blueberry Restaurant. There is a constant breeze on the beach that is refreshing and dangerously cooling! By the end of the afternoon we were glowing a healthy pink. Cian had spent the whole time surfing the waves in a T-shirt and had been protected from the rays. Our Indian Tans were now well on their way.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in and around the huts, before dinner was ordered back at the German Bakery. They had been so good to us the night before, we wanted to see what the place looked like with the lights on. Vegetable noodles for Cian, fresh grilled King prawns for Jec, Indian dishes for Peter and I to share. A feast for all!!

Thunder rolled in the distance, lightening arrived to illuminate the show, the rain stayed away until we were safely back on our balconies, cooling the evening air. The smell of the first rain is something to be treasured. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.

In the mornings, down in the bay, just beyond the cliffs, the fishermen hauled in their nets by hand. I had watched them the day before, for a good hour, while the children and Peter slept. This morning I wanted the children to see them too. Morning calls were issued, breakfast was postponed due to non activity in the dressing department and I marched them all of to see the fish!!



Despite their reluctance and initial 'why do I want to see fish?', they were all suitably surprised at the flurry of activity landing the nets caused. One recently landed net, was in the process of being distributed, amid much calling, shouting, arm throwing and general banter. Fish eagles filled the sky, crows and egrets lined the beach.



As we made our way back toward the cliff, we passed men, still pulling strongly on their ropes, inching the nets closer to the shore. Seeing three more sets of hands (mine were not required) they called the boys over and gave them places on the rope. Heave and step back, heave and step back. The nets inched in as I rolled them fresh cigarettes. Unfortunately, we needed to get back to our rooms to pack our bags, so with thanks from our team, we waved them goodbye.


From Varkala we were heading north to Kollom and a back water cruise to Alleppey. A rickshaw to the train, a train to the city and a rickshaw to find us rooms!! The first were just a 'wee' bit outside our price range. We should have guessed when the livery dressed door man offered to carry our bags and we were ushered into the lift to carry us up the six foot to reception. I had mentioned the figures 3/400 to the driver. He obviously hadn't heard the '/'! We made our excuses the moment we saw the tariff and walked back down the six foot of steps to the doorway, which was opened politely for us.

With our translations now in order we found 'other' rooms around the corner, between the kebab shop and the pan shop, up the corridor and along the stairs! I would never have found it alone and the rooms were great.

The town was hot, no cliff top breeze, no cooling thunderstorms, just the heavy humid heat of the streets. We showered and set off for the harbour to arrange our tickets for the morning ferry.

To my great surprise, I was recognised by one of the ticket men. He had arranged all the boats for the TV program and was delighted to see me back. With our tickets safely in our bags we turned back to find some supper. The only place I remembered, was in a large open square surrounded by three stories of shops linked by balconies, I was quite impressed that I found the place so easily, as my sense of direction is limited, to say the least.



The children's simple pizzas turned out to be spicier than Peters and my curry, so we shared things around and finished it all up with ice creams. A spot of shopping, a whole new wardrobe of T-shirts for Jec, as long as he carried them I wasn't objecting, and we retired to our rooms with our rickshaw man booked for the morning.

The ferry had also evolved over the 4 years since my last visit. Gone was the small, diesel chugging boat and in was the two tiered, soft seating down stairs, blue sun shield covered upstairs, big boat! We settled ourselves upstairs, reorganised the bags of treats and drinks and began the slow scenic journey along the back waters.









The sights and activities, I explained, to the best of my ability as we glided along. Chinese fishing nets, home-stays, coir stacks, rice fields, boats with eyes, boats so loaded it was amazing they still floated, children waved and called for 'school pen', Jec slept while Cian wandered around the boat making friends. After the lunch stop of a 'traditional thali meal' served on a paper banana leaf, Cian managed to get himself invited into the steering cabin and promptly drove the boat along the river and under the next bridge. His face was a picture when he told us it had been him who had been driving!


We had arranged back at the Bamboo Village, to stay at their sister home-stay, Bamboo House, that had only opened two weeks before. Sanjay jumped on the boat just before the last stop, informing us that he had arranged a rickshaw to pick us up. We piled our bags into the back, climbed on board and headed out into the night.

Bamboo House is 2km from the ferry terminal and very quiet. It is also extremely posh! Large tiled rooms, exquisite bathrooms and free internet made it THE place to rest for 48 hours. Their restaurant wasn't quiet finished yet (nor started for that matter) so dinner was back in town. Rickshaw's were so reasonable (50p) that this wasn't a problem and having unloaded the bags, showered in hot water and changed, we went back into town for food. There is however, only one restaurant in town, of any reasonable standard and it is a 'find a table and sit down affair'. They were heaving, a good sign I know but not when you have two hungry boys to feed. 'Ten minutes' we were promised, so we went around the corner to shop for the next days supplies. When we returned, they were just as heaving but true to their word they ushered us in as soon as they found space.

This was by far one of the cheapest places we ate at all holiday and the food was great! £2 saw us all full and they even did takeaway!!

Happy and full, we returned to the street to find a rickshaw home. A Very Happy driver invited into his vehicle, 'I take you home!' he beamed at us. We told him where we were staying, 'Yes yes I know' he called enthusiastically as we drove away. As we continued along the way, with Cian sharing his seat, our Very Happy driver gave Cian the controls! 'You drive' he beamed and let go!!!!!

'No problem, No problem!' he called as we protested in the back, 'He very good driver!'

We hurtled from one side of the road to the other, laughter filling the air along with cries of protest as we hit one bump after the other. Soon, however, we grew concerned about where we were actually going. It was very dark by now but we were sure we hadn't travelled this far the first time. We called to our driver who was laughing away in the front, he ignored us and we careered on with Cian still in control. As we approached a bridge, we were sure we were going the wrong way. We had defiantly not crossed a bridge the first time. We stopped. We re-informed our driver of the Home-stay we wanted. He looked blank. I got out the card with the map on the back. He got out to look at it in the light of his dim headlamp. He turned it over. He turned it back. He turned it upside down. We tried not to look concerned!

'OK!' he announced and we turned the rickshaw around. At the next group of people he stopped and got out of the rickshaw. They all looked at the map, they all turned it upside down! Then recognition filled someone's eyes and amid much arm pointing and head waggling, thing were sorted out.

A 2km simple ride had turned into a hearty exploration of the back-streets, Cian had driven a rickshaw, we had laughed ourselves silly and our driver was still Happy, what more could we ask. Free inter-net! With Cian safe in his bed, Jec sat up all night Face-booking friends and proudly informing us it was snowing back in Wales!! Tomorrow was a rest day, so we left him up chatting and went to bed.

The sun shone bright and hot the next morning, as I set off to walk my rounds. I meandered down alleyways, said good morning to children and grown ups alike as new faces passed my way. 'What is your name? Where are you from?' Again, I was a white face in a strange place and people wanted to know who I was. Smiles and hand shakes followed and I returned to the Bamboo House happy and relaxed. Cian, Jec and Peter had discovered Carrom's, a great board game that involves flicking counters across an enclosed area, in an attempt to 'pot' them into the corners, a bit like pool. I picked up my book and a pillow and lay down on one of the hammocks for the day.



That evening, having already eaten at the Taffi restaurant, we orderer a takeaway. Sanjay and Anthony disappeared on the bike (the one that Cian and Jec had spent the afternoon on, running errands with Sanjay!) to collect our meal. I tell you this is the best place! Plates were produced, non matching cutlery found and under a clear sky, with the mossie burner smoking away, we tucked into a fabulous dinner.


We had thought about moving on to Kottyam, which involved another boat ride and then a very long train trip back to Trivandrum. By the time we has sat around all day, eaten our fabulous meal and drunk a few cold kingfishers, our hearts weren't in it, so we made the decision to catch the bus back to Varkala instead. Anthony arranged for a rickshaw to pick us up in the morning and we went to bed, once more leaving Jec on-line.

Breakfast of toast and marmalade was served on the balcony. Our bags were packed, new people were arriving and the boys were busy. When a rickshaw arrived we grabbed our bags, called goodbye and headed out of the gates.

We had asked to go to the bus station but as we drew near to the jetty our driver stopped. 'No, No, Bus station Please'. He looked confused. 'We go Bus station', I tried again. 'One minute please' he replied and pulled out his phone. He smiled, chattering nervously and glancing at us sitting in his rickshaw. He came off the phone. 'One minute please' he said again. 'Friend coming' and pointed across the waterway. In India anything is possible and so you go with the flow.

A motor bike arrived, more conversations, more looking at us, more smiles. It was now getting close to the bus departure time! 'Bus Station?' I asked a bit more forcefully'. 'One minute please' they smiled!! Another phone call, another flurry of words and the mistake was found. The 'other' people in the Bamboo House were going on the boat trip! We had got into the wrong rickshaw!!

OK! to the bus station and then back, quickly for the 'other' people. Heads nodded, smiles broadened and we were off again. But the bus had gone. This is India, go with the flow. There will be another bus soon. We bought drinks, samosa's. We watched the world go by and caught another bus. At Kollom we got off, stretched our legs, chatted to an Irish and German girl who were sitting further down, got back on and continued on our way. Three hours later we had to change buses. The girls got off too. '150 rupees to the beach', a rickshaw driver called to us. We looked at each other, we looked at the dust and the heat, we looked at the girl, sounds good to me we called and piled in!!

By mid afternoon we were showered, unpacked and set for two days of rest on the beach!!



The days passed in a restful way. Where to eat, being the biggest decision we had to make as the meal times passed at regular intervals. Gifts were bought, clothes were washed and the tans got deeper.


I had arranged for us all to visit an Elephant Sanctuary on our way back to Kovollom. Cian was very excited as we climbed the steps to get onto our elephant. With a slow methodical swing, our elephant sauntered out of the gates and along the road. I pointed out pineapples growing in peoples gardens, Cian laughed as the elephant's ears swung back and forth over his feet, we chatted about the birds we saw, what elephants ate and how enormous their poo piles were!!


When we returned Peter and Jec were just coming back from their ride. As they approached they called that their elephant had charged out of the gate, amist much yelling and rope pulling from his handler!

They were defiantly paler than they had been when they left but were recovering quickly! Their ride was chained in the corner in disgrace, while we fed the others bananas.



It was 800 rupee to take the rickshaw all the way back to Kovollom (£11), we had a choice, rickshaw to the door for £11, or a day of bus stops, as we worked our way though the various connections. We handed over the money and climbed back in. I should explain the rickshaw set up at this point. As you may have noticed from the photos, Peter is not a small person. We had discovered that if he got in first, followed by Jec, I could squeeze into the back, if I sat forward, with my knees pointing outwards slightly. Cian, being so small, was squeezed onto the drivers seat and told to hang on. This arrangement had worked well so far, but we hadn't travelled any great distances, and not on any main roads!

As we approached the main highway Cain was told to sit in the back, as it was illegal for him to be in the front!! Now they tell us!! You will have noted, from my previous description, that there was not a lot of vacant space in the back, but join us he had to do, for over an hour!!!!

Like sardines, like we peeled ourselves from the rickshaw at our destination! Circulation flowed once more as pins and needles shot through our legs and buttocks. It had been an experience. Not one to be necessarily repeated, but none the less a memorable experience. We dropped the bags at our rooms and headed for the beach!!




We had three days left. Three days to read, rest, swim, play with new friends, eat and sleep. It was going to be hard. We made sand sculptures, ate sizzling prawns, bought silver and throws, we sat out under the stars and watched the waves hit the beach, we smiled a lot.





I had opened a door for the children and possibly Peter. A door that showed them the freedom of travel, the liberation of conversation, the gifts of friendships. That door is theirs now, to open further, or to leave just slightly ajar until the time is right.

Twenty Four Hours in Edinbugh!!

Hi Everyone

It is time for an update I think, I have begun a mission to visit someone, every weekend that I am not working, between now and my Big Trip! Lou was the first and once I recovered from the 4am bedtimes I travelled up to Edinburgh to spend the weekend with my Sister Fleur!! ….and what a trip.... do enjoy the story …..


Twenty-four Hours in Edinburgh!!!

What an amazing weekend I have just had. Full on, non stop, brilliant fun!

Having worked all day Friday, first in the school, followed by a meeting with my supervisor at 1.30pm, I was in the Leisure Centre for work at 2pm, finished there at 7.30pm and was on the road, freshly showered and dressed by 8pm!!

The drive up was straightforward, even for me and I arrived in the centre of Edinburgh at 1.30am. As soon as I saw the Castle I knew I was going to be OK, having walked around it so many times on my trip last year and I amazingly found Fleur's flat without a hitch. The huge Tramway road works have now moved from Princess Street to outside the flat, making the whole area a massive one way system, luckily all going in the direction I wanted to go. I phoned a very surprised and sleepy Fleur from the bottom of the staircase saying 'Open the door Babes I'm here!!'

Twenty minutes later we were in bed asleep with a huge evolving plan bedding into our sleepy heads for the next day.


I defiantly chose the right weekend, weather wise, to head up North. The day was glorious! I wandered off about 8am to move the car, before the 8.30am charge began, parking being extortionate that close to the city centre. I headed down various side roads towards the Murryfield Stadium, where I'd parked the car for the week the last time we came up. I will admit to noticing large yellow notices saying something about the rugby, but I didn't pay that much attention and walked the mile back to Fleurs in the fabulous morning sun, chanting happily as I went.

Fleur had arranged a surprise Baby shower for Sassy, her close friend, for later that afternoon. Sassy had only two more weeks to go, so it was this weekend or never! A quick tidy around the house, while Elliot helped by watching the Grand Prix heats at high volume to drown out the sound of the hover, was followed by the arrival of Marie, complete with balloons and presents for the soon to arrive Baby.


Introductions and hugs were exchanged along with a quick catchup between Fleur and Marie, while we decided what to do with the rest of the morning. Eventually it was decided that we would all visit the Botanical Gardens as Fleur had invites to an Art Exhibition opening there that day. The Artist himself had given her the tickets at her Godiva Promotional Launch the previous Thursday. Scarf's and jackets were donned, cameras packed and the three of us drove up to the Gardens in Marie's car, parking miraculously right next to the entrance!

Leisurely we wandered around in our fashionable jackets and shawls, admiring all the brown stuff, as there wasn't that much green stuff around. We warmed ourselves in the huge palm house, admiring the splendid array of orchards, before venturing outside again to sit and smoke a cigarette in the cloud dodging sun, gazing out towards Edinburgh Castle on its magnificent rock in the distance. I set fire to the drain in front of us, as I tossed my cig butt into it. Fleur became the hero of the hour and sorted the problem with efficiency and speed, after we had sat there for about three minutes wondering if it would go out by itself!

A few photos of the sisters together, artfully done with the Castle in the background and it was time to enter the exhibition. We picked up our complimentary glasses of wine and juice and headed in through the large doors, only to be told that no drinks could be brought into the Gallery! We returned to the sunshine, downed our beverages and tried again.

To say I do not fully understand Modern Art is the understatement of the year! Strange finger paintings of multiudinal colours adorned huge canvases. My entire Primary school would have loved to have made one and have done so, I seem to remember! Plain photos in simple frames with squares or dots painted onto the outside glass held a meaning that was lost on me, and the pile of hair grips I nearly picked up, thinking that someone had dropped a packet!

On the staircase to the second floor we met the Artist, who was so pleased that Fleur had made it to his event. We made the right noises, kissed the right cheeks and moved onto the second floor. More strange canvasses adorned the walls, I wandered, trying to look inspired until I turned a corner. There in the distance, through two doorways I saw the most amazing picture. Still abstract, in blues and greens, sweeping colours rather than dots and fine yellow lines. A heavily pregnant woman was there, three friends huddled together, two people embracing. The more I looked the more I saw as one line merged into another like the candlestick or the two faces phenomenon.

'Subtle Biology' the guide informed us was the name of the canvas and it was very impressive and cleverly done. I actually found a second painting I liked too so just maybe there is hope for me yet!

Having performed our hour or two of cultural education, Fleur and I headed into town and the shops leaving Marie to pick up the things she needed and park the car up for the day. During our discussions that morning we had decided that the perfect gift, for the soon to appear baby, would be a Wedgwood Beatrice Potter Peter Rabbit set, consisting of a bowl, plate and cup. Fleur had had one as a child and so had Lisa, and both still cherished the slightly battered sets to this day.

With this gift firmly in our thoughts we entered the first large department store. This was soon followed by a second and third large department store and our ideas on the perfect gift began to waver. Having walked the entire length of Princess Street and rapidly running out of time we were told to try John Lewis's by a very helpful sales lady in Frasiers! John Lewis was at the other end of town and the time was now 2.15! People were due to start arriving at the flat at 3pm!!! But the dream of the perfect gift was still there. A bus was caught to speed us to the other end of the road. On a mission we marched our way against the growing rugby crowd into the Mall and up the various levels of yet another store.

In the very quiet china department we found the gift sets. Monster's, Trucks, The Hungry Caterpillar, Pink Ballerinas adorned the shelves, Winne the Poo, complete in its own tin but no Peter Rabbit. We had now run out of time so despondently we picked up the Hungry Caterpillar Set and headed for the till. Credit card was handed over, the amount was keyed in, I mentioned we had looked everywhere for Peter Rabbit to no avail and then the guy next to our Sales Assistant says “I'm sure they has some on the next floor up!” I looked at Fleur, she looked at me, the card was removed, the box abandoned on the counter as we called “We wont be long” to our stunned Sales girl.

By now we were on a major mission. Having come this far we had to see this through to the bitter end. Escalators carried us upwards to our goal, people melted into oblivion as we visually scoured the shelves. We were side tracked for a fraction of a second by some lovely bath products designed exclusively for babies, until there on a display stand, just to our right, we found exactly what we had been looking for. A boxed set of Peter Rabbit, plate, bowl and mug.

The box was cradled back to our Sales girl, credit card was reinserted, pin was entered and we were away. 2.30pm and we were still at the wrong end of town. Another bus was caught, food was collected at a run as we passed Coop, legs were pushed to their limits as we scaled the 71 steps back to the flat but we had done it. Perfect gift and home in the nick of time!!!

Sassy had been told she was coming to a gathering for Fleurs Birthday so the whole thing was a huge surprise when she walked in half and hour late. Balloons filled the lounge, Cava filled the sideboard and food covered the table. Gifts were given, glasses filled and the whole afternoon became a happy if loud affair!!

….................

The Baby shower continued with more and more people arriving bearing gifts and cakes. Thousands of people milled around on the road outside the flat, heading down towards Murryfield, ready for the 5pm kick off. Inside the flat the TV sat in silence, while the pictures from the stadium flashed across its screen.

We sat and chatted, ate and drank, all the while quietly eyeing the TV screen for the latest score. For the last 15 minutes of the game, the music was turned off and the sounds from the stadium were cranked up. The room became absorbed in the game, cries of encouragement, screams of objection filled the room as the final whistle drew closer. A 15/15 draw was eventually conceded, after a very tense final two minutes and the game was over.

Marie's parents had been at the game and we had all agreed to meet up afterwards for a meal in the Chinese restaurant around the corner from Fleur. It would take them a while to leave the stadium and arrive at the restaurant, so we continued our drinks, while hanging out the window, four floors above the rapidly filling streets. In a matter of minutes, the whole of the Avenue was filled to overflowing, as English and Scots worked their way back into the city centre. The mood was subdued. No-one had lost, yet no-one had won either. The boundary between road and pavement soon disappeared as the throngs march quietly onwards. Cars caught up in the march simple drove at 3 miles an hour, subdued like the crowd. From our raised viewpoint Fleur remarked on how Lowery the whole scene was. Tiny figures in the street lights, match stick men and cats and dogs!

As quickly as they arrived, they were gone, odd stragglers wound their way to now overcrowded bars. Our guests in the flat, emptied their glasses, all evidence of the gathering was removed to the kitchen, hugs and best wishes were bequeathed and silence fell on the place. Well it would have if we had been able to find our jackets, boots, cameras, bags etc. etc. etc.!!!

71 stone steps to the road, 171 steps around the corner and I was introduced to Andy and Cush, Marie's parents and long time friend of my Father! Ross was there with his new Lady ('remarkably normal' had been Marie's observation, when she had told us about her earlier that evening!), the red wine was flowing as was the white. Stories abounded around the table as dinner was ordered, more amusing antidotes were related as the evening progresses and more red wine flowed. The description of Papa's boat would have amused him, yet both Fleur and I defended her durable and ever pervading longevity, by stating that she was still afloat and seaworthy despite Andy's misgivings!!

Having filled the restaurant with our presence, there were 13 of us around that table, insulted, justly as Andy exclaimed, the English, and having put the world to rights, it was time to move on. Marie left to collect her boyfriend from the Airport, following his return from France, the parents and Ross returned to their hotel, the others sat for a while longer finishing their drinks as Fleur and I returned to the flat.

It was still only 10.30, early, as Fleur said. I, however, was still recovering from the drive, she was recovering from her launch a few days earlier and so we hung out of the window, watching the now quiet street, smoking and chatting about our pasts, and our futures, until the clock struck midnight!

…..............

Fleur woke at the ridiculous time of 6am. I rolled over and went back to sleep while she dozed in and out of consciousness until 9am. With the one way system now against me, I decided to explore my route back onto the A702 while I did my rounds that morning. The day was once again beautiful as I headed out and up to the main junction with Princess Street. The signs were many, bedraggled kilted men wandered aimlessly, as I worked out which way I would need to go. Rounds completed and with a firm plan in my mind, I headed back to the flat.

As I walked past the 'Pay and Display' machine on the final stretch, I noticed the sign that said 'Parking Mon to Sat ….' no charge on a Sunday! Brilliant, I could move the car now and be ready to leave mid afternoon. I hastily climbed the 71 large stone steps up to Fleur's front door, only to discover the car keys were already in my coat pocket. With a 'back soon' I turned, descended the 71 very large stone steps to the main road and began the mile walk to the car.
The walk was wonderful. Beautiful sunshine, no breeze and so, so quiet. I rounded the final corner to my car and stopped dead. No Car!! Yes, this was defiantly where I had parked it. Stunned, and not quite sure what to do, I looked for the yellow signs that had been there the day before but they had all gone. I phoned Fleur. Suggestions please, I enquired? I began to walk back while I called Peter. Kindly he offered to come fetch me but that would still leave my car missing. 'Call the police' he said, for if it had been stolen I needed to report it, or if it had been towed, they would have been notified. I continued my walk back to Fleur's reaching the corner just before the flat when she phoned me with phone numbers of the police and the tow centre that closed at 11.30am. It was now 10.30am.

I sat down on a nearby step and called the first number. Which department did I require? I didn't have a clue!I explained that I had 'misplaced' my car and was put through to a lovely Scottish lady who took my details and car registration. A quick scan of the computer and I was informed that my car was parked outside No 2 Cregly Cresent. I apologised profusely for the inconvenience I had caused them and enquired as to how much I owed them. 'Oh, there is no charge' the sweet lady told me, they had simple needed to move my car as it was in the way for the Rugby!!

Happily I stood up clutching the piece of paper with the new location written on and once more walked the mile, to the street where I had originally parked. The car couldn't be that far I reasoned. Once back in Murryfield Place however, I realised I didn't have a clue where to even start looking. As I stood gazing pointlessly around the place, a big Black Cab pulled up outside the Café across the road. I smiled as I walked purposefully towards the large man sitting behind the wheel.

'Excuse me', I enquired, 'could you tell me where Cregly Crescent is?'

'Where?!!' he drawled back, 'Creiglie?' I smiled. He looked at me with a puzzled expression.'There is a Creigiee Cresent the far side of town, by the Ski Slope, is that the one yr after?!'

'One moment,' I told him and called the police station again, 'Cregly? Oh Craighly, No?... Craigliee?.... yes, the Taxi man is here with me. Oh!.... She wants to talk to you!' I handed my phone to the kindly taxi Driver. 'Craigleigh Crescent, Yes Lass no problem, I'll take her there myself!' He handed me back the phone, recognition and understanding, with a definite hint of suffering patience, on his face.

Three corners, two avenues and a long boulevard later, he pull up behind my beautifully parked car. £5.00 was handed over, along with my profuse thanks. Tentatively I asked which way was the main road, my sense of direction having returned to its usual non existent state. A flurry of word flew from his mouth. I recognised the words 'Right' and 'Left' somewhere in the conversation but the rest was lost in the translation! I smiled broadly, as if I had understood every word, thanked him again and waved him farewell.

I got into my car, turned in the direction that we had just come from and headed off surrendering to the Universe to see me safely home. At the first junction I came to I spotted the spires of St Mary's, the Church across the road from Fleur's, peering above the skyline. I had been saved yet again and was home in five minutes. It was still only 11.15am. My day was still in its infancy and already I had survived a wonderful adventure, met some interesting people and been through a part of the city I had never seen before. Happily I climbed the 71 extremely large stone steps to the top floor and related my excursions to Fleur!

Too soon we were on our way back down the steps to visit Godiva's, Fleur's Boutique. She had had a huge clear out since my last visit, giving the shop a feeling of clarity and space, uncluttered yet still full of things to see, try, touch. A seating area had been added just inside the doorway, coffee or herbal teas were there for the taking.

A new designer had been added to her collection, and the spring collections of her established girls filled the bays.

As I wandered and clicked away with my camera, Fleur arranged our lunch, phoning to check availability and opening hours. Once again we were on the move, winding our way through the narrow streets and cobbled roads to meet up with Fleur's old flat mate. Fruit juices, Ceasar salads, hummus, spiced potato wedges and warm breads soon filled the table as we all chatted, drank and generally enjoyed the lunchtime moment. The time was now approaching 3pm, the hour I had set myself for departure.

We said our good byes, walked back to the flat via the castle and a last photo opportunity, before climbing the 71 now enormous and steep stone steps for the last time. It is no wonder my sister is so slim and fit!!


Bags were collected, a final cig was shared as we gazed out of the window, we shall both be giving up again in the morning, and I was gone. A wonderful, fun filled, mind stimulating, sense exploration, absolutely brilliant weekend with photos and happy memories to keep forever.

The End!

I hope you enjoyed my story xxx do tell me yours!!! xxx

New Beginings

Lets start at the very beginning, a very good place to start, when we read we begin with ABC, when we travel we begin at home!



I live, lived at number 2 Winllan, Llanbrynmair, until a few months ago. A sweet little house that I shared with my then partner, Mark. We also owned a very large workshop and an even larger area of woodland where we had played at den building, tipi camping, river clearing and had huge fire burning
parties over the past seven years.

Yet time moves on and all things change


Mark wishes to settle down, I wish to begin my travels and so we have decided to split our assets, he will keep the workshop, I get the house to rent out and the land will soon be money in the bank. On August the 14th 2010, I shall be leaving the country for at least a year to explore a new life and a new way of living.


I begin this blog to remember where I began. Let the journey continue..........

Last Day in Nha Trang - Part 18

Thursday 16th April – Last Day Nha Trang.

True to his word Kris had remembered to leave his door open and I arrive after a final check of my room to find him and Matt flat out on the settee while Simpson DVDs played in a loop on the TV! I stored my bag in the corner, left a note saying that I was going to the beach and quietly let myself out..

The beach was virtually deserted. A few people in the distance lay on sun beds yet there was no one in the sea.

As I sat on the beach I gazed out over the flat, still ocean, past the huge pylons that carried the cable car to the island, and noticed the biggest ship I have ever seen. The photos I am afraid are hazy due to the distance and heat yet you can still see the vastness of this thing. The pylons had dwarfed our boat as we passed below them each day on our way to the islands and yet here was a ship that was moored far out past these pylons and was still higher than them!! There are cruise ships and there are cruise ships!!

I lay down on the slope of the beach, my feet about three foot away from the water and drifted back off to sleep. I awoke to find my feet being caressed by the cool water as the tide so slowly inched its way up the beach. With my feet now constantly lapped by the waves, my body warmed by the sun and my skin cooled by the soft breeze I spend a very blissful two hours on the beach before returning to Kris's house for a shower.

The house was just waking up, people blurry eyed from their late night indulgences, demanded food to ease their moaning stomachs! Bikes were hauled upright after their abandonment the night before and with my sarong hitched once more into a lady like position we headed off to find strong coffees and bacon butties!

Caffeine hits were ordered, extra sauce was smeared onto thick bacon and life returned to the dead bodies surrounding me. Last Day in Nha Trang!! What were we going to do? Kris had decided to spent the whole day with me, we could go to the Marine Park, climb the steps to the Great White Pagoda, go sight seeing in the surrounding hills. What did I want to do? Joe wanted more coffee, Matt wanted to go Go Carting. Everyone's face lit up! Final hits of iced coffees were downed, helmets were stuck onto heads and we were off.

The Fun Park where the Go Carts live is a thirty minute drive from Nha Trang, up the coast and slightly inland. We raced along the free way dodging fume belching trucks as we went. Out over the long bridge spanning the huge lilly filled waterways, tiny floating houses, life styles so different from our own. We passed through rolling hills green and fresh after the heat of the city. Joe snapped random photos as we raced along. Kris's helmet decided to detach itself from the foam inner that was rammed onto his head. With no straps to hold it in place, it was left to me to rest my hands on top of his head as we raced to prevent it from blowing off!

The Park was reached, bikes parked up, bugs were wiped from the fronts of our bodies. Riding pillion does have some advantages. We paid for our tickets and entered our very own amusement park as the place was deserted.

Staff sat in silent booths, cafés lay empty. The boys thought this was great and raced about like children climbing onto statues and doing very strange things to innocent small penny rides!

The Go Carts were located at the far side of the Park, I declined their offers to partake of the races and was handed their entire belongings to watch over as they climbed into their vehicles.


I am so glad I made the decision to film and photograph the following events rather that take part. Carts were rammed into the side tyres, shunted from behind, caught with some cracking side swipes and chaos generally ensued! When their time was up and the barrier was slid across the road to bring them back to the pits, they took the tight short cut and did another two laps before the guys could stop them!

Thunder rolled in the distance, the sky darkened but no rain fell so we headed off to the Pirate Boat ride. This was followed by the tiny Bumble Bee ride suitable for 4yr olds according to the sign and then as the boys headed for the next toddler style ride the sky's opened in true tropical fashion. Ten minutes later it stopped, the ground steamed and we headed back to the Go Carts. This time with the camera on video I stood beside the track and filmed their antics as they races around and around.

As they finished their final lap I became aware of the multitude of tiny bites I was receiving and realised I was standing in a swarm of mossies. The rain had brought them out to play but as it was day time I had put no spray on at all. I had received only one bite during my whole visit to Asia and now I had hundreds!

The boys joined me and we races away from the trees to the animal enclosures to play with the primates. Peacocks strutted their stuff, the boys did the same and the day passed by in riotous laughter and fun.




Our return journey to Nha Trang was as eventful as out outward one but with twice the traffic to weave around. The Boys decided to recover watching TV for an hour or two allowing me a final stroll along the beach front.

Every evening at about 5pm the evening breeze picked up bringing children and grown-ups alike to the beach front to enjoy the cooling effects of the onshore winds.

Mopeds festooned with Kites appeared on the corners, hand carts were rolled into place, all selling coloured kites and other such wind orientated delights. I sat and watched the growing crowd fill the shoreline. Three weeks had flown by.

In another four hours I would be getting on the night bus to Ho Chi Minh City. From there I would fly to Bangkok and then home. Three days of travel lay ahead of me.



I got up and returned to find Kris.

Our final meal was Mexican! JP joined us once more, along with Matt, Amanda and Joe. Crème caramels followed with chocolate sauce and as I licked all the plates clean I realised I had had no chocolate since the Mars in Pattaya three weeks before! With the meal finished we all said our goodbyes. Kris walked me to the bus stop, we hugged and I told him to go to Guava's and get drunk with his friends before I changed my mind and cancelled my flight!


My trip had been amazing, I had travelled and seen sights that many people only see in books. I had met random people with fascinating stories to tell and had completed my PADI Open Water but best of all I had seen my son become a man. Seen his new life, met his new friends, seen the friendship and respect he held within this tight community. I returned home happy and proud.

Until the next time ….....

Another Hot Day in Vietnam - Part 17

Wednesday 15th April

Another hot day in Vietnam. I wandered off to the beach after a leisurely morning shower and my usual breakfast of vegetable crackers and cheese on the balcony. John arrived about 10am, settled down beside me for a spot of sun worshipping, before we had a lovely refreshing swim and long conversation. He is also looking for a flight to Bangkok and thought the $95 that we had found was a very good deal. He asked which airline I was flying with but as I had left it all to Kris I had no answers for him. I asked him to call into the Dive shop about 1pm as I was meeting Kris for lunch saying that we would try to be at the shop about that time so Kris could give him some more details.


At about mid day we said our goodbyes and I returned to my room to shower before walking to the boys house. Kris was just coming off the phone to JP. He and a few friends were lunching at Lanterns and Kris suggested we join them there. I had a lovely meal of fried rice and tofu while everyone sat around eating, chatting, laughing. The social side of dining in Vietnam is a pure pleasure to indulge in. Meals stretch out over hours, people leave and others pull up a chair. Drinks are refreshed and conversations wander over the broadest fields of topics!

John called Kris's phone half way through the afternoon which totally surprised Kris as he had no idea who John was. The Dive shop had felt sorry for him as he had been waiting for over an hour for us at the shop and had passed on Kris's phone number. He and Kris chatted for a while, Kris giving him the details he needed, while I ordered some more drinks!

Kris was working the 6pm to 8pm shift in the shop that evening so we eventually made our way from Lanterns to the house, changed and headed back into town. I hit the internet while Kris did his evening duty selling dives to the passing tourists. Dinner was held in the cafe next to the Dive shop as no one could decide where to eat and the cafe was the nearest place to sit down and discuss the matter! We all ordered much too much food especially as our lunch had stretched over the entire afternoon and neither Kris nor I were that hungry. Joe and Matt battled their way through it all washing everything down with copious amounts of beer before we headed off to Guava's for a second evening of live music.


The music was once again brilliant. The Organised Pub Crawlers arrived about 10pm, this time 15 people had signed up and they danced and drank in the true tradition of a Pub Crawl. Kris, Matt, Amanda and Joe decided to join the 'Crawl' in their adventures. I was invited but politely declined. Everyone had the following day off work so I knew it was going to be a full on evening. Kris ran me home on Joe's Bike and promised faithfully to leave the door to his place open so I could drop my bags there when I checked out of my place in the morning. I kissed him goodnight and once more climbed the many steps up to my high altitude balcony.

Qualified - Part 16

Tuesday 14th April

I was decidedly tired this morning when I woke. It was still only 5.30am so I rolled over only to be disturbed by a text from Kris 20 minutes later. He had left his takeaway on the lounge table. Could I pick it up for him and bring it to the boat. I showered, gathered my things, including my own takeaway before walking to his house. I could see the pot on the table but the door was locked. I tried to phone him but the directions for making a call within Vietnam on my O2 sim were just too confusing and I abandoned not only the call but also his food. He could share mine!

At the Shop Simon was still wandering around not happy, I kept out of the way until the mini bus turned up for the ride to the harbour. On the boat everyone was in a much happier mood, the 'Mom' sign still amusing my fellow divers and staff. Kris , Amanda and Joe did the 'stone, scissors, paper' game to see who was to deliver today's address to the boat. Amanda lost, heading to the front of the boat to deliver the now familiar speech with a smile. I do so love the professionalism these guys give to their work.



We sailed out past Octopus Rock, which confused me until Kris explained that Miska was doing a deep dive with one of his Advance Diver students. They jumped overboard, the boat started up again and we motored back into the familiar surroundings of the bay.


Kris explained what skills we were going to go over as we kitted up, we buddy checked, signalled and jumped in.

I did a Controlled Emergency Ascent but ran out of air just before I got to the surface. I did it again this time judging the breath rate better and making it to the surface on the one breath. Weight belt removal, fin pivots, mask clearing followed by the usual photo shoot and exploration.


We finished with mask removal which was quite funny as I had been taking my mask off for photos all morning! Kris signalled an Assisted Air Ascent but half way to the surface he spotted a group of squid so the ascent was side tracked while we followed them taking photos as we went. As I said, having ones son as ones instructor does lead to some interesting skill learning!


Lunch was superb, why we hadn't done this before I do not know. Hot rice from the boat flavoured with the left over sauce from the night before. We all tucked in eagerly not worrying about the chicken curry the rest of the guests were eating.


Around to Moray Beach for our final dive of the day, a few more skills, a bit of bubble ring blowing followed by more exploration and games. Kris took us out quite far so we could reach the limit of the depth I am allowed to dive to, a photo to prove it and I was getting cold again.



We headed into the shallower water to warm up, watching the large shoals of fish disappear into the coral as we approached.






How so many fish can disappear into so small an area is amazing. All too soon it was time to return to the boat. Kit was removed before I got onto the boat, put back on in the water for the practice and then removed once more to be handed up to Son. I stripped it down while Kris threw Joe overboard, Matt joined the fun as the two Boat Dive Masters finished off putting away the dive gear.



Who's idea it was to expand Joe I do not know but the results were hilarious. With a regulator stuffed inside his rash vest he began to grow and grow. Everyone was laughing so much as we watched him inflate. Kris and Matt held the top of his vest together as he disappeared inside it. Amanda passed me her camera and did a great jump in to join them. And these are the responsibly people we trust our lives to under the water!




It was unanimously decided by Angel,Tobias and myself that we would have an hour or two to sleep before we sat our final exam that afternoon. Kris and Joe were happy about this and we arranged to meet back in the classroom at 3pm. I arrived with what I thought was plenty of time only to find the other two had already started! Within twenty minutes however I had finished and reviewed my answers. Kris said I had to stay put so I began the alternative exam in the back of the book. At this point Kris took me out of the room and marked my exam! 96% Pass. Two questions wrong, one that I knew would be wrong as I had had no idea how to work it out plus a second one that I wasn't quite sure about and had guessed. Simon joked that even after Kris had given me the answers I had got two wrong. His mood had improved over the day. I replied that it would have been too suspicious if I had got them all right!

Kris went over my two mistakes clarifying the depth ratio for air consumption, he took my photo for my certificate and together we filled in the hundred and one sheets to confirm I had completed the whole course satisfactorily. I was now a certified Open Water Diver!!

As I walked back to the apartment John cycled by. He had been keeping an eye out for me, unfortunately he was due to be somewhere that evening but would I be on the beach tomorrow. I said I would and we arranged to meet for lunch.

Kris joined me at 6pm saying we had to sort my flight out today! I had been saying that for two days! We took his bike to the cyber cafe and my flight was booked within minutes- it is so easy when you know what you are looking for. Next stop was the Night bus to Saigon, ticket in my hand we set off for drinks at Guava's until the rest of our clan joined us for supper.

In two days I would begin my journey back home- I wasn't ready to leave. I felt at home here. People waved hello as I passed, the lady in the corner shop greeted me by name, I was making friends in my own right. I didn't want to go home at all.

In Guava's conversation turned to my leaving. Bangkok airport was closed I was told – hadn't I heard!The city had broken into chaos again, 12 people had been shot that day. Even though my flight was booked I may not be going home after all! But 4 days is a long time in Asia and anything could happen. We decided not to think about it and just enjoy the days that were left.

We joined the others for our evening meal at the cafe next to the dive shop, following it with ice-cream from the Italian across the road before going back to Kris's to watch some DVD's. Yet another day had passed but now I was a Certified Diver!!

Training Continues - Part 15

Monday 13th April

Today started early as I reviewed my home work and re read some of the information before heading to the dive shop and harbour. Kris was waiting for me on the dive boat smiling, Matt had written me onto the board as 'MOM' much to every ones amusement!

My home work was checked as we motored out to sea, Kris and I having a difference of opinion over one of my answers before I collected my kit, putting it all together under his watchful eye. The 'O' ring was checked thoroughly, hoses were connected, gauges were checked. Satisfied with my efforts he then helped me lift the completed rig back onto the side of the boat, secured it ready for our dive and lit up a cigarette! So much for healthy divers!!

At Octopus Rock with Buddy Checks performed, we were first off the boat, my water entry being the only serious lesson to be learnt that day. It was great fun playing with buoyancy control. Deep breath in and up you go, breath all the way out and sink again. It felt totally natural to be under the water, my ears were fine, my breathing settled into a steady rhythm, Kris signalled OK and we set off over the reefs.

I'm glad Kris knew where we were going as I was totally disorientated within the first two turns. One rock looked very similar to the next, one patch of sand blending into another. There is so much to see and do underwater. I was seeing loads yet missing even more. The 40 minutes flew by, Kris signalled for our assent as I realised we were below the boat again. I was just beginning to feel a little cold and was quite glad of the warmth as we returned to the surface and the hot sun.

With air supplies changed for the next dive, I tucked into the warming pineapple and some strange white fleshed fruit that tasted a bit like Kiwi as we sailed around the bay to Moray Beach.

The second dive was fantastic. We dutifully reviewed my skills, mask removal, fin pivots, out of air and secondary air supply, then we went to play!! The Lion fish was still guarding his patch. The moray Eel did his swim past on que and now with a supply of air to maintain me I could wait outside the octopus lair for him to appear! I was so busy watching him that Kris had to physically touch me to gain my attention. A huge ball of fish circled above us as I realised it had become much darked due to their presence. It was the sort of thing you see on the TV (or in the film Saving Nemo) yet here I was, sitting below them as they moved in their slowly spinning ball. Fascinated we watched as they moved away. Kris blew some bubble rings, mine were not as good but were defiantly rings up to a distance oftwo foot – then they fell apart while Kris's rings continued up to the surface expanding in diameter yet holding their integrity.

We sat under the boat – as one does! Unfortunately the regulator doesn't work upside down which confused me at first as I knew I couldn't be out of air that soon! I checked my gauge, there was defiantly air there, I tried to breath but there was nothing there. I righted myself to signal to Kris and the air began to flow again! That was when I realised regulators don't work upside down!! Its the little things they don't tell you in the class room that makes diving interesting! Having walked from one end of the boat to the other along the hull, breathing periodically, I stopped for a photo and returned to the surface! Kit was handed up, everything was dismantled, washed and stowed before we jumped back in again for a swim!

We tried the hull walk without the aid of air. It is incredibly slippery and without the buoyancy the wet suits had given us, quite difficult to keep in contact with the boat. I made it about half way before slipping off and coming to the surface. Kris made it to the end without incident, apparently it is his party trick!!

Matt and Joe performed some incredible 'bomb' jumps, soaking our little man in his glass bottom boat as he passed. He had just finished mopping up the splashes when they did it again, this time together causing a huge splash wave to cover him! He shouted good naturedly, waving his fist at them and swinging his oar, this was a normal occurrence at the end of the day it transpired and he normally kept his distance from the Foolish Boys as he called them.

More sun was soaked up on the upper deck on the return run before we headed straight back into the classroom for our next theory lesson. Big mistake! With all our exertions and the fresh sea air of the morning we were soon nodding away from our concentration and I found myself more than once jolting back to conciousness!

By 3pm I was on the beach asleep! I woke at 4pm to find the sun had gone! Totally disorientated I looked to my side to see sunlight lighting the sand. I sat up and looked towards the sun and town. Of all the places to lie on the beach I had chosen the only spot right opposite the huge hotel on the beach front. I moved ten foot to my right, lay back down in the full sun and went back to sleep!! Diving is very tiring!!

Eventually I left the beach, completed my assigned homework and met up with Kris and the others. Matt wanted Indian so he could eat the left overs on the boat. I too thought this was a great idea. We collected JP from Rainbow Divers as we passed. He was in need of rescue he had informed Kris when he had phoned him. Unknown forces had prevented him from leaving the bar all day and food would be a welcomed change to the liquid lunch and tea so far consumed!

This time we headed upstairs, pushing two tables together to accommodate us all. Drinks and food were ordered, conversations flowed, the day was recounted for JP's amusement, hull walking was dissected into its various components and general nonsense followed. At the end of the meal Kris announced that he had no money! I do wish he had told me before I'd left the house as I only had a couple of hundred on me. JP kindly picked up Kris's remaining share of the bill. Kris suggested Guava's for after dinner drinks. We arrived like refugees with our food pots in our hands, Kris took our drink orders, anything we wanted he said, much to JP's delight – I found out that Kris runs a regular tab at Guava's at that time of each month, a useful thing when money runs out!!

Son arrived complaining Simon was in a bad mood, someone had crashed his PC while he had been away (or so he was claiming) and blood was required to sooth the beast! Two people had also cancelled last minute for a dive, further deepening his darkened mood. Kris bought Son a beer and the world looked brighter. We were home well before midnight (11.30!) our takeaways safely placed in the fridges for the morning. Life was settling into a pleasant routine of fun, food, drinks and sleep! Life was good.